HPAVC/HPAVC CD-ROM.iso/AED_BOT.ZIP/4

Text File | 1993-09-19 | 219KB | 4,803 lines

4.0     USING EXPLOSIVES

     Once a terrorist has made his explosives, the next logical step is to
apply them. Explosives have a wide range of uses, from harassment, to vandalism,
to murder. NONE OF THE IDEAS PRESENTED HERE ARE EVER TO BE CARRIED OUT, EITHER
IN PART OR IN FULL!  DOING SO CAN LEAD TO PROSECUTION, FINES, AND IMPRISONMENT!
     The first step that a person that would use explosive would take would
be to determine how big an explosive device would be needed to do whatever had
to be done. Then, he would have to decide what to make his bomb with. He would
also have to decide on how he wanted to detonate the device, and determine
where the best placement for it would be. Then, it would be necessary to see
if the device could be put where he wanted it without it being discovered or
moved. Finally, he would actually have to sit down and build his explosive
device. These are some of the topics covered in the next section.

4.1     SAFETY

     There is no such thing as a "safe" explosive device.  One can only speak
in terms of relative safety, or less unsafe.

4.2     IGNITION DEVICES

     There are many ways to ignite explosive devices.  There is the classic
"light the fuse, throw the bomb, and run" approach, and there are sensitive
mercury switches, and many things in between.  Generally, electrical detonation
systems are safer than fuses, but there are times when fuses are more
appropriate than electrical systems; it is difficult to carry an electrical
detonation system into a stadium, for instance, without being caught.  A device
with a fuse or impact detonating fuse would be easier to hide.

4.21     FUSE IGNITION

     The oldest form of explosive ignition, fuses are perhaps the favorite
type of simple ignition system.  By simply placing a piece of waterproof fuse in
a device, one can have almost guaranteed ignition.  Modern waterproof fuse is
extremely reliable, burning at a rate of about 2.5 seconds to the inch.  It is
available as model rocketry fuse in most hobby shops, and costs about $3.00 for
a nine-foot length.  Fuse is a popular ignition system for pipe bombers because
of its simplicity.  All that need be done is light it with a match or lighter.
     Of course, if the Army had fuses like this, then the grenade, which uses
fuse ignition, would be very impracticle.  If a grenade ignition system can be
acquired, by all means, it is the most effective.  But, since such things do not
just float around, the next best thing is to prepare a fuse system which does
not require the use of a match or lighter, but still retains its simplicity.
One such method is described below:

     MATERIALS
     _________
     strike-on-cover type matches
     electrical tape or duct tape
     waterproof fuse

1) To determine the burn rate of a particular type of fuse, simply measure a
   6 inch or longer piece of fuse and ignite it.  With a stopwatch, press the
   start button the at the instant when the fuse lights, and stop the watch when
   the fuse reaches its end.  Divide the time of burn by the length of fuse, and
   you have the burn rate of the fuse, in seconds per inch.  This will be shown
   below:

     Suppose an eight inch piece of fuse is burned, and its complete time
     of combustion is 20 seconds.

     20 seconds
     ──────────  = 2.5 seconds per inch.
     8 inches

     If a delay of 10 seconds was desired with this fuse, divide the desired
     time by the number of seconds per inch:

     10 seconds
     ─────────────────── = 4 inches
     2.5 seconds / inch

NOTE: THE LENGTH OF FUSE HERE MEANS LENGTH OF FUSE TO THE POWDER.  SOME FUSE,
      AT LEAST AN INCH, SHOULD BE INSIDE THE DEVICE.  ALWAYS ADD THIS EXTRA
      INCH, AND PUT THIS EXTRA INCH AN INCH INTO THE DEVICE!!!

2) After deciding how long a delay is desired before the explosive device is
   to go off, add about 1/2 an inch to the premeasured amount of fuse, and
   cut it off.

3) Carefully remove the cardboard matches from the paper match case.  Do not
   pull off individual matches; keep all the matches attached to the cardboard
   base.  Take one of the cardboard match sections, and leave the other one
   to make a second igniter.

4) Wrap the matches around the end of the fuse, with the heads of the matches
   touching the very end of the fuse.  Tape them there securely, making sure not
   to put tape over the match heads.  Make sure they are very secure by pulling
   on them at the base of the assembly.  They should not be able to move.

5) Wrap the cover of the matches around the matches attached to the fuse, making
   sure that the striker paper is below the match heads and the striker faces
   the match heads.  Tape the paper so that is fairly tight around the matches.
   Do not tape the cover of the striker to the fuse or to the matches.  Leave
   enough of the match book to pull on for ignition.

          _____________________
          \                   /
           \                 /  ------ match book cover
            \               /
             |    M|f|M ---|------- match head
             |    A|u|A    |
             |    T|s|T    |
             |    C|e|C    |
             |tapeH|.|Htape|
             |     |f|     |
             |#####|u|#####|-------- striking paper
             |#####|s|#####|
             \     |e|     /
              \    |.|    /
               \   |f|   /
                \  |u|  /
                |ta|s|pe|
                |ta|e|pe|
                   |.|
                   |f|
                   |u|
                   |s|
                   |e|
                   |.|
                   |_|

     The match book is wrapped around the matches, and is taped to itself.
     The matches are taped to the fuse.  The striker will rub against the
     matcheads when the match book is pulled.

6) When ready to use, simply pull on the match paper.  It should pull the
   striking paper across the match heads with enough friction to light them.
   In turn, the burning matcheads will light the fuse, since it adjacent to the
   burning match heads.

4.211     Sulphured Wick

    Heavy _cotton_ string (1/8th inch diameter)
    Sulphur
    Small container or pie pan
    oven

    Use heavy cotton string about 1/8th inch in diameter.
You can find some at a garden supply for tieing up your tomatoes. Be
sure it's cotton. You can test it by lighting one end. It sould continue to
burn after the match is removed and when blown out will have a smoldering coal
on the end. Put some sulfur in a small container like a small pie pan
and melt it in the oven at 250 degrees. It will melt into a transparent yellow
liquid. If it starts turning brown, it is too hot. Coil about a one foot
length of string into it. The melted sulfur will soak in quickly. When
saturated, pull it out and tie it up to cool and harden. It can be cut to
desired lengths with sissors. 2 inches is about right. These wicks will burn
slowly with a blue flame and do not blow out easily in a moderate wind.
They will not burn through a hole in a metal pipe, but are great for extending
your other fuse. They will not throw off sparks. Blackmatch generates sparks
which can ignite it along its length causing unpredictable burning times.
Now you have the basic ingredients to shake the earth like thunder. In the
next installment or two, I will tell you how to put it all together to do ju
st that. You will find that you have baked a very deadly pie. I have twice
been accused of setting off dynamite in the woods. The explosive power of your
little grey powder may exceed your expectations, so choose your testing
ground with care.

4.212     Blackmatch Fuse

1    flat piece of plastic or metal (brass or aluminium)
1/2    cup black powder
1/2    teaspoon corn starch
    teaspoon
    aluminium foil
    scissors
    cotton thread (not silk or synthetic)
    drill (1/16th bit)
    oven

    Take a flat piece of plastic or metal (brass or aluminum are easy to
work with and won't rust). Drill a 1/16th inch hole through it. This is your
die for sizing the fuse. You can make fuses as big as you want, but this is the
black powder add water to make a thin paste. Add 1/2 teaspoon of corn starch.
Cut some one foot lengths of cotton thread. Use cotton, not silk or thread
made from synthetic fibers. Put these together until you have a thickness
that fills the hole in the die but can be drawn through very easily. Tie your
bundle of threads together at one end. Separate the threads and hold the
bundle over the black powder mixture. Lower the threads with a circular
motion so they start curling onto the mixture. Press them under with the back
of a teaspoon and continue lowering them so they coil into the paste. Take
the end you are holding and thread it through the die. Pull it through
smoothly in one long motion. To dry your fuse, lay it on a piece of
aluminum foil and bake it in your 250 degree oven or tie it to a grill in the
oven and let it hang down. The fuse must be baked to make it stiff enough
for the uses it will be put to later. Air drying will not do the job. If you
used Sodium Nitrate, it will not even dry completely at room temperatures.
Cut the dry fuse with scissors into 2 inch lengths and store in an air tight
container. Handle this fuse carefuly to avoid breaking it. You can also use a
firecracker fuse if you have any available. The fuses can usually be
pulled out without breaking. To give yourself some running time, you will be
extending these fuses (blackmatch or firecracker fuse) with sulfured wick.

4.213     Fuse Paper

Author: Deceptor

    Useful for making the fuses for bangers (firecrackers) and other slow
burn fuse applications.

You will need :

        Sodium Chlorate - Go to your local gardenshop/centre and ask
                                  for some Sodium Chlorate weedkiller. You're
                                  meant to be 18 by law but if you're not it
                                  doesn't usually stop them selling you it.

                Newspaper/Tracing Paper


    The Sodium Chlorate in the weedkiller is unlikely to be more than
about 65% pure - this is not a problem if you're not worried about how quickly
it will burn as fuse paper but if you are using the fuses in a lot of wind or
are going to through them as part of a firecracker you will have to concentrate
the Sodium Chlorate and remove impurities as much as possible beforehand as
follows:

    Make a saturated solution of the weedkiller (ie.dissolve as much of it
    as you can in very hot water) then filter off any remaining crystals.
    Then heat the solution very hot in a dish - then when crystals start
    forming around the rim heat more gently and then leave to cool - after
    some time u will have crystals with gunge all over them - wash them and
    filter off any rubbish.

    This is really simple to make but quite effective. Just take the
Sodium Chlorate (pure or weedkiller) and then make a solution of it (put in
water). Then soak the paper in the water and leave to dry on a radiator.

    When the paper is dry it will burn with some loud pops and just as
fusepaper so you have made your own fuses. Now to put the fuses to work.. (hehe)


4.214     Quick Wicks

Author: GArbled uSer

    These wicks aren't the best.. but do OK in a jam.

    Take any burning string (except nylon, if it melts when burned, it's
nylon!). Get some acetone (nail polish remover) and gunpowder (or ground up
charcoal if in a SERIOUS jam. (you is bummin!) Mix in 1:1 ratio. Dip string
in mixture. Let the ACETONE soak in for awhile. Let dry. Repeat about 10 times.


4.215    Slow Burning Fuse (2 inches per minute)

Courtesy of: The Jolly Roger

    Cotton string or 3 shoelaces
    Potassium Nitrate or Potassium Chlorate
    Granulated sugar

Wash the cotton string or showlaces in HOT soapy water, rinse with fresh water.

Mix the following together in a glass bowl:

1 part    potassium nitrate or potassium chlorate
1 part    granulated sugar
2 parts    hot water

-    Soak strings or shoelaces in this solution
-    Twist/braid 3 strands together and allow them to dry
-    Check the burn rate to see how long it actually takes!!


4.216    Fast Burning Fuse (40 inches per minute)

Courtesy of: The Jolly Roger

    Soft cotton string
    fine black powder (empty a few shotgun shells!)
    Shallow dish or pan

-    Moisten powder to form a paste
-    Twist/braid 3 strands of cotton together
-    Rub paste into string and allow to dry
-    Check the burn rate!!!



4.217     Black Match and Quick Match

These items have nothing to do with the matches you strike to light your
fireworks. In the jargon of pyrotechnics, match is a simple fuse made
around a string core. Black match is used much like you would use ordinary
fuse. That is, it gives a time delay before the firework actually goes off.
You should want this to happen most of the time. Quick match is just the
opposite. It burns from end to end very quickly. This is used where you
want to start several fireworks at once, but light only a single fuse. This
happens most often in commercial fireworks displays, where a large array of
various colored flares (lances, in pyrotechnic lingo) must all be lit
together to form a picture of some sort on a wooden framework set on the
ground. You may not have much need for quick match, but it's interesting
information, and if you know why it works you don't cause it to happen
accidentally.

To make black match, you start with cotton twine. Different thicknesses
will give different results. Thicker twine will hold more powder and will
burn better, but heavy cord is too much. Try as many kinds as you can.
Avoid synthetic fibers; they can keep your match from working properly. If
you aren't sure wether or not the twine is synthetic, try to burn a small
length of it. Cotton will burn with a tiny flame and leave a very mundane
ash. Synthetics will clearly melt as they burn.

The prime ingredient of black match is meal powder. This is the name used
in the pyrotechnic field for an unprocessed gunpowder mixture. You can just
powder the ingredients by hand in a mortar and pestle (do each one
separately!) and then just mix them in a plastic bowl. There's no need to
use a powder mill, as will be described below. The black match formulation
consists of 10 parts meal powder and one part of either gum arabic or
dextrine. These are two different types of glues, and you should make your
selection based on the humidity. Gum arabic is better in dry climates and
dextrine is better in higher humidity. Add water and stir the mix until all
the grains are wet. It will probably take a bit of work to get it spread
all around, as the fine dust likes to form dry patches. After you think
you've got it all damp, let it all sit for a few minutes so that any dry
areas too small to see will have a chance for the moisture to soak in.
After this, add lots more water and a bit of alcohol stir until you have a
disgusting black mush. The amounts of liquid will be roughly a pint of
water and an ounce of alcohol for every pound of meal powder, but you may
need a bit more or less, depending on the thickness of the string you use.
Don't take these proportions as an indication of the size of your first
batch, though. Start small.

Take a 2 or 3 foot length of the string and stir it up in the mush,
squishing it in so as to get it completely soaked. Slowly draw it out, dust
it with some dry meal powder and hang it to dry. Be careful while stirring,
making sure that you don't wind the string into knots. If you do, discard
the string and start again. Since this piece of garbage will become very
flammable when it dries out, I'd suggest either burying it or cutting it
into shorter lengths and flushing it down the can.

Don't hang up these things anywhere there's an open flame or a chance of a
spark. If one goes off, the sparks it spits off should have a reasonably
good chance of setting off any others hanging nearby, and if you don't end
up starting a fire, you'll at least lose a lot of hard work in a hurry. If
you need longer lengths of this stuff, you'll have to modify your
technique, but be assured it's been done by others, and you can too. As
I've never needed more than a few feet at a time, I can't speak from
experience, though. Just use your head and you'll surely work out a good
technique.

This material, when dry, is black match, and will burn as a crude fuse. If
you try to bend it, the powder will crumble off, leaving spot where the
fuse may go out. Obviously, you can't use this everywhere you'd use
waterproof safety fuse, but there are times where it's useful.

All right then, if this stuff is so fragile, why not enclose it in a sort
of tube, to beef it up? That should protect it from crumbling, right? Well,
it'll certainly protect it, but it will also act entirely different. The
match will burn erratically, sometimes normally, sometimes in fast jumps.
If the tube is wide enough, say, 3/16 to 1/4 inch inside, the sparks that
the burning powder spits out will fly down the tube, igniting more powder,
and causing the flame to flash from one end of the tube to the other in
almost no time at all. This is called Quick Match and the tubes can be made
by rolling a few layers of newspaper over a 1/4 inch steel rod and quickly
pulling the tubes off to dry.  You can then run a length of black match
through the tube, and wherever you want to attatch a firework to the tube,
just poke a small hole and insert a piece of black match.

Don't try to wrap a tighter tube around a piece of black match to try to
strengthen it. You won't be able to count on any sort of predictable behavior
out of the thing, and if you were counting on having a little time to head for
cover and the flame just flashes through the tube, well, that could abruptly
change your plans for the next few months. Safety fuse isn't hard to get and
it's not all that expensive. Use it where it's needed.

If you absolutely can't get safety fuse, you can coat the black match with
spray on plastic, available from handicraft stores, and when that's dry,
brush on a layer of liquid rubber mold compound, which you can often get
from the same place. One or more layers of the rubber will keep the powder
from crackling off, but absolutely don't skip the spray on plastic, first.
The plastic will put a temporary waterproof coating on the powder, which is
needed since the liquid rubber is water based, and will wet the powder and
then dry on the surface, sealing in the water. Such fuse would be very
likely to go out at an inopportune time. Feel free to experiment with
various brush on varnishes as a waterproofing, but the convenience of spray
application has many advantages.



4.218    Commercial Safety Fuse

This handy item consists of a string coated with gunpowder, which is in
turn gwrapped with light twine, and finally coated with a red or green
varnish. The varnish is apparently applied without a great deal of thinner
in it, because it covers the twine layer without actually soaking into it.
This waterproofs the fuse, and it can get quite moist for a long time and
still work, provided that you don't crack the varnish layer by bending it
too severely. If you do, the fuse will still work fine as long as it stays
dry. This type of construction is built around its being made by machine.
You wouldn't want to make it this way by hand, though we'll talk in a
minute about a way to make a somewhat inferior waterproof fuse.

The red and green varnishes are more than just decorative. They tell you
something about how the fuse works. All fuses will spit a stream of burning
crud from their ends as they burn. Sometimes people who are the first to
describe things have no imagination, and it must have been the case here,
because this property is known as end spit. Some fuses also spit sparks to
the side, and not surprisingly, this is called side spit. Consider that a
fuse that has little side spit may not light some of the more difficult to
ignite mixtures until it burns to the very end of the fuse and fires its
last spit out of the far end. Some of the very difficult to ignite mixtures
may not ignite at all. Fuse with side spit will be blasting away at the
mixture its inserted into through the entire length of its insertion.
Unfortunately, the fuse with side spit isn't nearly as tough as the fuse
that only has end spit. If you have a choice of fuse types, you can make
your selection according to what you have available. Fuse with mostly end
spit is colored red, while fuse with a good amount of side spit is colored
green. (And I'll bet you thought it was just a decoration!)



4.219      Firecracker Fuse

The tiny firecrackers that come in packs of 20 or more, all braided
together, show the most unusual fuses. A thin tissue tube that has been
somehow filled with the tiniest string of powder. Most texts on fuse give
this item a quick mention as being difficult to make and suggest that their
authors tried to do it and gave up. As it turns out, these are not all that
difficult to make once you get the procedure right. We'll start out making
a fuse that's about twice as thick as those tiny things, and as you develop
the proper technique, you'll be able to scale it down to make something
that looks and acts like the real thing. Most attemps fail when the
individual starts out trying to make the fuse as thin as the commercial
version, and eventually gives up. What you really need to do is first
develop the basic skills on something larger. After that, it's easy to work
your way down. To be honest, this kind of fuse is not widely useful
considering the time needed to make it, but for those times when you do
have a use for it, this knowlege can be very handy.

It's very important to start with the right kind of paper. The paper used
in the orient is not availabe here, but reasonable substitutes can be
found.  What's needed must be tissue-thin, yet fairly firm and strong. The
papers used in facial tissues and toilet paper are far too flimsy. The real
dedicated model airplane builders who work in balsa wood have used various
tissues, and one material, called silkspan, can get reasonable results. But
a perfectly adequate paper can be scrounged for free. That crackly kind of
tissue paper that's used by stores to pack clothing into gift boxes so that
it doesn't flop around in the box will work just fine. If you don't know
what I'm talking about, it's time you graduated up from blue jeans and
T-shirts.

You'll have a difficult time of it if you don't start out by making or
getting a few simple tools. The first item you'll need is a piece of bent
sheet metal or a piece of metal angle. Angle is sturdier and is easier to
use. The item should be about 8-10 inches long. If you use sheet metal,
make it about 2 inches wide and bend it down the middle along its length.
You should have a long trough with an angle of 90-100 degrees. Next, you'll
need a cradle to hold the trough so that the bend can be at the lowest
point. Two strips of wood, attatched to a base, will do the job. Finally,
you'll need tiny, spoonlike tools for dispensing and spreading the powder.
Some biological supply houses sell a stainless steel spatula that's ideal.
It consists of a thin metal rod about the thickness of a coat hanger, with
one end flattened out into a 1/4 inch wide paddle that's great for spooning
out tiny amounts of powder. The other side has a more pointy paddle that
makes it much easier to spread out the powder.

Make a weak glue by dissolving a bit of dextrine in water. Find a SHARP
pair of scissors and cut out some pieces of the crackly tissue about 3
inches long and 3/4 inch wide. Get pieces that have no wrinkles. The pieces
should be quite straight, which you'll have trouble doing if the scissors
are not really sharp.  Fold the tissue along its length, as shown;

              |<----------------- 3 inches ------------------>|
              |                                               |
                                                                    \/
               -----------------------------------------------  ----------
              |                                               |  1/4 inch
   ---------- |-----------------------------------------------| ----------
       /\     |                          /                    |     /\
    1/2 inch  |                         /                     |
       \/     |                fold here                      |
   ----------  -----------------------------------------------

Unfold the sheet and set it down into the trough, as shown in the cross
section. The picture is angled incorrectly, since typewritten characters
give only a limited ability to show graphics. The trough should look like
an "arrowhead" pointing downward.


                                                                     /
                                                                    /
                                                                 / /
                                                                / /
                                                           ... / /
                                         powder ------>  .... / /
                                                      ...... / /
                  paper ---> _______________________________/ /
sheet metal -----> __________________________________________/  <---- First
or metal angle                                                        fold


Use the wider of the spoon tools to put a crude line of freshly mixed meal
powder along the length of the fold. Next use the pointier tool to try to
spread the powder out evenly. A few properly placed taps should cause the
powder to spread out uniformly. This works much better if the trough is
made of angle instead of sheet metal. It's not likely to work at all if the
meal powder is a day or more old, since any humidity will probably have
started it to cake together. It's difficult to describe how much powder to
put in, but it's easy to describe what it will look like when it's done.
Lift the paper out of the trough and refold the tissue, holding in the
powder. Once folded, the powder should fill the folded section about
halfway.

   _________________________________________________________
  |                                                         |
  |                                                         |
  |                                                         |
  |                                                         |
  |                                                         |
  |                                                         |
  |_________________________________________________________|
  |                                                         |
  |                                                         |       Crease and
  |                                                         | <---- fold here
  | ******************************************************* |
  | ********************* powder ************************** |
  ----------------------------------------------------------- <--- First
                                                                    fold

Next, crease the paper right above the powder and fold it upward, enclosing
the powder in a second fold. This may take a little practice, but it's not
as hard to do as it might first appear.

   _________________________________________________________
  |                                                         |
  |                                                         |
  |                                                         |
  |                                                         |
  |                                                         |
  |                                                         |
  |_________________________________________________________|
  | ******************************************************* | <--- First
  | ********************* powder ************************** |       fold
  ----------------------------------------------------------- <--- Second
                                                                    fold

Next, roll the folded powder section up into the remaining paper. Don't
worry if it's not perfectly smooth, but try the best you can. Give the
slender tube you've made a gentle, rolling twist. Don't twist it too tight,
or you'll rip it. When it's about as thin as it's going to get, dip your
finger in the water/dextrine mix, and quickly run it along the length of
the fuse. Be careful not to use too much. It should not be soaked, just
dampened along one side.  Leaving the fuse twisted, set it down with a
small weight on each end to keep the twist in the fuse. The weights will
flatten the ends, and when it's dry you'll want to cut off at least 1/4
inch from each side. These parts won't have enough powder.

You can experiment with making longer lengths of fuse. Three inches is a
reasonable size to learn on, and you'll probably be able to add another
inch or two, though you may not find the extra effort to be worth it. It's
better to practice making thinner fuse. What you've just made is probably
about twice as thick as is found in commercial packs of firecrackers. Work
your way down to papers only 1/2 inch wide, using a smaller amount of
powder. You are now an expert fusemaker.



4.22     IMPACT IGNITION

     Impact ignition is an excellent method of ignition for spontaneous
terrorist activities.  The problem with an impact-detonating device is that it
must be kept in a very safe container so that it will not explode while being
transported to the place where it is to be used.  This can be done by having a
removable impact initiator.

     The best and most reliable impact initiator is one that uses factory
made initiators or primers. A no. 11 cap for black powder firearms is one such
primer. They usually come in boxes of 100, and cost about $2.50. To use such
a cap, however, one needs a nipple that it will fit on. Black powder nipples
are also available in gun stores. All that a person has to do is ask for a
package of nipples and the caps that fit them.  Nipples have a hole that goes
all the way through them, and they have a threaded end, and an end to put the
cap on. A cutaway of a nipple is shown below:

                   ________________
                  |                |
                  _                |
                 | |                 |
          _______| |^^^^^^^^|        |
          |      ___________|          |
          |     |                      |
   no. 11       |_______|                |
   percussion    _______                 | ------- threads for screwing
   cap here     |       |                |         nipple onto bomb
          |     |___________           |
          |_______         |           |
               | |^^^^^^^^^|         |
               |_|                   |
                                   |
                  |________________|

     When making using this type of initiator, a hole must be drilled into
whatever container is used to make the bomb out of. The nipple is then screwed
into the hole so that it fits tightly. Then, the cap can be carried and placed
on the bomb when it is to be thrown. The cap should be bent a small amount
before it is placed on the nipple, to make sure that it stays in place.  The
only other problem involved with an impact detonating bomb is that it must
strike a hard surface on the nipple to set it off. By attaching fins or a small
parachute on the end of the bomb opposite the primer, the bomb, when thrown,
should strike the ground on the primer, and explode. Of course, a bomb with
mercury fulminate in each end will go off on impact regardless of which end it
strikes on, but mercury fulminate is also likely to go off if the person
carrying the bomb is bumped hard.



4.23     ELECTRICAL IGNITION

     Electrical ignition systems for detonation are usually the safest and
most reliable form of ignition. Electrical systems are ideal for demolition
work, if one doesn't have to worry so much about being caught. With two spools
of 500 ft of wire and a car battery, one can detonate explosives from a "safe",
comfortable distance, and be sure that there is nobody around that could get
hurt. With an electrical system, one can control exactly what time a device
will explode, within fractions of a second. Detonation can be aborted in  less
than a second's warning, if a person suddenly walks by the detonation sight, or
if a police car chooses to roll by at the time. The two best electrical igniters
are military squibs and model rocketry igniters. Blasting caps for construction
also work well. Model rocketry igniters are sold in packages of six, and cost
about $1.00 per pack. All that need be done to use them is connect it to two
wires and run a current through them. Military squibs are difficult to get,
but they are a little bit better, since they explode when a current is run
through them, whereas rocketry igniters only burst into flame. Military squibs
can be used to set off sensitive high explosives, such as R.D.X., or potassium
chlorate mixed with petroleum jelly. Igniters can be used to set off black
powder, mercury fulminate, or guncotton, which in turn, can set of a high order
explosive.

4.231     Flashlight Bulb Electric Fuse

1    flashlight bulb
    batteries
    black powder or substitute
    file

    Take a flashlight bulb and place it glass tip down on a file. Grind it
down on the file until there is a hole in the end. Solder one wire to the case
of the bulb and another to the center conductor at the end. Fill the bulb with
black powder or powdered match head. One or two flashlight batteries will heat
the fillament in the bulb causing the powder to ignite.

4.232     Electric Ignition Fuse

    steel wool
    blackmatch fuse or substitute
    blackpowder or substitute
    tape
    batteries
    cardboard
    wire (No. 18 or 20 is a good size)

    Take a medium grade of steel wool and pull a strand out of it. Attach
it to the ends of two pieces of copper wire by wrapping it around a few turns
and then pinch on a small piece of solder to bind the strand to the wire.
You want about 1/2 inch of steel strand between the wires. Number 18 or 20 is a
good size wire to use. Cut a 1/2 by 1 inch piece of cardboard of the type
used in match covers. Place a small pile of powdered match head in the
center and press it flat. place the wires so the steel strand is on top of
and in contact with the powder. Sprinkle on more powder to cover the
strand. The strand should be surounded with powder and not touching anything
else except the wires at its ends. Place a piece of blackmatch in contact
with the powder. Now put a piece of masking tape on top of the lot, and
fold it under on the two ends. Press it down so it sticks all around the
powder. The wires are sticking out on one side and the blackmatch on the
other. A single flashlight battery will set this off.

4.24     ELECTRO-MECHANICAL IGNITION

     Electro-mechanical ignition systems are systems that use some type of
mechanical switch to set off an explosive charge electrically.  This type of
switch is typically used in booby traps or other devices in which the person
who places the bomb does not wish to be anywhere near the device when it
explodes.  Several types of electro-mechanical detonators will be discussed

4.241     Mercury Switches

     Mercury switches are a switch that uses the fact that mercury metal
conducts electricity, as do all metals, but mercury metal is a liquid at
room temperatures. A typical mercury switch is a sealed glass tube with
two electrodes and a bead of mercury metal. It is sealed because of mercury's
nasty habit of giving off brain-damaging vapors. The diagram below may help
to explain a mercury switch.

                         ______________
                     A  /              \   B
      _____wire +______/___________     \
                       \   ( Hg )  |    /
                        \ _(_Hg_)__|___/
                                   |
                                   |
                            wire - |
                                   |
                                   |

     When the drop of mercury ("Hg" is mercury's atomic symbol) touches both
contacts, current flows through the switch.  If this particular switch was in
its present position, A---B, current would be flowing, since the mercury can
touch both contacts in the horizontal position.
     If, however, it was in the | position, the drop of mercury would only
touch the + contact on the A side. Current, then couldn't flow, since mercury
does not reach both contacts when the switch is in the vertical position.
     This type of switch is ideal to place by a door. If it were placed in
the path of a swinging door in the verticle position, the motion of the door
would knock the switch down, if it was held to the ground by a piece if tape.
This would tilt the switch into the verticle position, causing the mercury to
touch both contacts, allowing current to flow through the mercury, and to the
igniter or squib in an explosive device. Imagine opening a door and having it
slammed in your face by an explosion.

4.242     Tripwire Switches

     A tripwire is an element of the classic booby trap.  By placing a nearly
invisible line of string or fishing line in the probable path of a victim, and
by putting some type of trap there also, nasty things can be caused to occur.
If this mode of thought is applied to explosives, how would one use such a
tripwire to detonate a bomb.  The technique is simple.  By wrapping the tips of
a standard clothespin with aluminum foil, and placing something between them,
and connecting wires to each aluminum foil contact, an electric tripwire can
be made,  If a piece of wood attached to the tripwire was placed between the
contacts on the clothespin, the clothespin would serve as a switch.  When the
tripwire was pulled, the clothespin would snap together, allowing current to
flow between the two pieces of aluminum foil, thereby completing a circuit,
which would have the igniter or squib in it.  Current would flow between
the contacts to the igniter or squib, heat the igniter or squib, causing it
it to explode.
                    __________________________________
                    \_foil___________________________/
 Insert strip of      ----------------------------spring
 wood with trip-      _foil__________________________
 wire between foil   /_______________________________\
 contacts.

Make sure that the aluminum foil contacts do not touch the spring, since
the spring also conducts electricity.

4.2421     More Trip Wires

Author: The Mortician

     Well first of all I recommend that you read the file about landmines...
You can use an m-80,h-100, blockbuster or any other type of explosive that will
light with a fuse. Now the way this works is if you have a 9 volt battery, from
a radio controlled car or what ever and get either a solar igniter (preferably)
or some steel wool you can create a remote ignition system.

What you do it set up a schematic like this.

    ------------------>+ batery
 steel ||                ->- batery
 wool  ||                /
  :==:---  <--fuse       \
       ||                /
       ---- spst switch--\

    So, when the switch is on the current will flow through the steel wool
or igniter and heat up causing the fuse to light.

Note:    For use with steel wool try it first and get a really thin piece of
wire and pump the current through it to make sure it will heat up to light the
explosive.

    Now the thing to do is plant your explosive wherever you want it to be
but bury it and cover the wires obviously... Now take a this wire fishing line
is good about 20 lb. test and tie one end of the wire to a secure object.
Have your switch secured to something to and make a loop on the other end on
the line. Put the loop around the switch such that when pulled it will pull
the switch and set off the explosive.

To ignite the explosive... The thing to do is to experiment with this and find
your best method... Let me know on any good kills, or new techniques...

4.243     Radio Control Detonators

     In the movies, every terrorist or criminal uses a radio controlled
detonator to set off explosives.  With a good radio detonator, one can be
several miles away from the device, and still control exactly when it explodes,
in much the same way as an electrical switch.  The problem with radio detonators
is that they are rather costly.  However, there could possibly be a reason that
a terrorist would wish to spend the amounts of money involved with a RC (radio
control) system and use it as a detonator.  If such an individual wanted to
devise an RC detonator, all he would need to do is visit the local hobby store
or toy store, and buy a radio controlled toy.  Taking it back to his/her abode,
all that he/she would have to do is detach the solenoid/motor that controls the
motion of the front wheels of a RC car, or detach the solenoid/motor of the
elevators/rudder of a RC plane, or the rudder of a RC boat, and re-connect the
squib or rocket engine igniter to the contacts for the solenoid/motor.  The
device should be tested several times with squibs or igniters, and fully
charged batteries should be in both he controller and the receiver (the part
that used to move parts before the device became a detonator).

4.244     Clothespin Switch

Author: Jolly Roger

    A spring type clothespin is used to make a circuit closing switch to
actuate explosive charges, mines, booby traps, and alarm systems.


    Spring type clothespin
    Solid copper wire -- 1/16" (2 mm) in diameter
    Strong string on wire
    Flat piece of wood (roughly 1/8 x 1" x 2")
    Knife


1)    Strip four in. (10 cm) of insulation from the ends of 2 solid copper
wires. Scrape the copper wires with pocket knife until the metal is shiny.

2)    Wind one scraped wire tightly on jaw of the clothespin, and the other
wire on the other jaw.

3)    Make a hole in one end of the flat piece of wood using a knife, heated
nail or drill.

4)    Tie strong string or wire through the hole.
5)    Place flat piece of wood between the jaws of the clothespin switch.


Basic Firing Circuit :

        ______________
       |              |---------------------------\
       |  initiator   |----------\                |      strong
        --------------           |                |      twine
                                 |                |          \
                                 |               _---------_________
                                 |                ---------
                                 |                 |      \clothespin
                                 \                /          switch
                                  \              /
                                   \            /
                                    \          /
                                     \        /
                                      +      -
                                     ----------
                                     |        |
                                     | battery|
                                     ----------

    When the flat piece of wood is removed by pulling the string, the jaws
of the clothespin will close, completing the circuit.

CAUTION:

    Do not attach the battery until the switch and trip wire have been
emplaced and examined. Be sure that the flat piece of wood is seperating the
jaws of the switch.

4.245     Flexible Plate Switch

Author: Jolly Roger

This flexible plate switch is used for initiating emplaced mines and explosives.

Two flexible metal sheets
    - one approximately 10" (25 cm) square
    - one approximately 10" x 8" (20 cm)

    Piece of wood 10" square x 1" thick
4    Soft wood blocks 1" x 1" x 1/4"
8    Flat head nails, 1" long
    Connecting wires
    Adhesive tape


Procedure:
---------

1)    Nail the 10" x 8" metal sheet to 10" square piece of wood so that 1"
of wood shows on each side of the metal. Leave one of the nails sticking up
about 1/4".

2)    Strip insulation from the end of one connecting wire. Wrap this end
around the nail and drive the nail all the way in.

3)    Place the four wood blocks on the corners of the wood base.

4)    Place the 10" square flexible metal sheet so that it rests on the blocks
in line with the wood base.

5)    Drive four nails through the metal sheet and the blocks (1 per block)
to fasten the sheet to the wood base. A second connecting wire is atached to
one of the nails as in step #2.

6)    Wrap the adhesive tape around the edges of the plate and wood base.
This will assure that no dirt or other foreign matter will get between the
plates and prevent the switch from operating.

How to use:

    The switch is placed in a hole in the path of expected traffic and
covered with a thin layer of dirt or other camouflaging material. The mine or
other explosive device connected to the switch can be buried with the switch
or emplaced elsewhere as desired.

    When a vehicle passes over the switch, the two metal plates make contact
closing the firing circuit.



4.250    Detonators

4.251     Mini-Compound Detonators

From: Anarchy Today, Article #4 Issue #1
Author: Jack The Ripper

    This is basically a tutorial in making detonaters, and there are a
few rules, that I would like each and every one of you to follow. Making
detonators is very very dangerous considering that the purpose of detonaters
is for them to be sensitive and easily detonated, so be careful. Also the
detonators I am telling you how to make are small, but the same principle can
be applied on a larger scale.


Name                                                    Source
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------

Empty .22 Magnum shells or copper/brass/aluminum        Gun stores or Hardware
tubing 1/4 inch in diameter and 1 inch long.  These     Stores
tubes must also be closed at one end.

A substantial quantity of Secondary Explosive i.e. RDX  RDX in this book!
(amount depends on how many detonaters you intend to
make) or PETN can be substituted here.                  PETN is the
                                                        center filling of
                                                        detonating cords.

A substantial quantity of primary explosive i.e.        Acetone Peroxide
Mercury Fulminate or Acetone Peroxide.                  Recipe in this Book!

An ignition charge of black powder.                     Gun stores FFF black
                                                        powder.

A loading press (commonly used for reloading shells     Gun stores
also please be safe considering a few of these
detonaters may detonate when being compressed, so
take the neccessary precautions such as safty glasses
etc...)


-=-=-=-=-=-
-PROCEDURE-
-=-=-=-=-=-

*NOTE* dirt or oil may sensitive the detonaters to an unsafe level so when
handling the primary ad secondary and ingnition charges use tongs.  Also boil
a bucket of water in the room as humidity helps or if your in a house turn
your shower on hot and leave it on!

1)      Now light a candle, and let two drops of wax drip into each shell
        casing before use.  Then let the wax cool down.

2)      Now fill the casing to a depth of 1/4 inch with RDX or PETN, and then
        *GENTLY and SLOWLY* insert the ram and compress the explosive slowly
        and evenly.  Now remove the ram slowly and carefully.

3)      Continue this process adding small amounts of RDX or PETN until a
        column of secondary explosive 5/8 of an inch high has been pressed into
        the 1 inch shell casing.

4)      Now add a small amount of Primary explosive the same way you added the
        secondary explosive on top of the secondary explosive.  Now add the
        Mercury Fulminate or Acetone Peroxide on top of the 5/8 inch column of
        secondary explosive and compress it with the ram until it reaches a
        height of primary explosive 1/4 inch high.

5)      Now compress the remaining 1/8 of an inch with black powder.  Now seal
        the top with wax paper or tape until ready for use.


-=-=-=-=-
-DIAGRAM-
-=-=-=-=-

                           -   +++                           |   |@@@@|
                           |   |****|
                           |   |****|
                           |   |####|
               1 INCH------<   |####|
                           |   |####|
                           |   |####|
                           |   |####|
                           |   |----|
                           -   |====|


+-++
+Key+
+-++


@ = Black Powder (Ignition Charge)

* = Mercury Fulminate or Acetone Peroxide (Primary Charge)

# = RDX or PETN (Secondary Charge)

- = Two drops of wax on Bottom

+ = Tape covering top

= = The bottom of shell casing

| = Sides of .22 Magnum Shell


-=-=-=-
-USES!-
-=-=-=-


    These little beauties can be used for almost any purpose or a larger
version can be used where a hard to detonate substance is used. Their main
use is for minature hand grenades and other small explosives. The next issue
of "Anarchy Today" will cover various things such as explosive candles, etc...



4.26     Igniters

i.e. for igniting hard to light chemical reactions like Thermite.

4.261     Sulfur and Aluminum Igniter

From: Anarchy Today, Article #6 Issue #1
Author: Jack The Ripper

    This is more of a secondary ignitor for those tough to ignite
incendiaries such as thermite etc...  It is relatively easy to make and safe
to handle so therefore it is an excellent ignitor, and it does not lose it's
effectiveness quickly.

* Coolness, can ignite Thermite..! [Hook]

Name                                                    Source
------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Fine Aluminum Powder                                    Paint Stores (Bronzing
                                                        Powder)

Sulfur                                                  Drug Stores

Measuring Container(Cup, tablespoon, etc...)
Mixing Container w/tight fitting lid
Storage Container w/tight fitting lid (airtight)

Two Flat Boards one hand size and the other 36x36 or a big board and a
rolling pin


1)    Spread the sulfur out on the board and crush into a fine powder (dust)

2)    Measure out 4 parts by volume of finely powdered sulfur to 1 part by
    volume of aluminum powder.  Now mix these two in the mixing container
    by closing the lid and shaking it up for 4-5 minutes until a uniform
    color and consistancy are achieved.

3)    Store the igniter in a waterproof container until ready for use.  Also
    re-shake before use to re-mix and settled particles.


-=-=-=-
-USES!-
-=-=-=-

    This is mainly used to ignite thermite. Four spoonfuls of this
aluminum/sulfur igniter are added on top of the thermite, and one spoonful of
potassium chlorate/sugar igniter is added on top of that. Now when the
potassium chlorate/sugar igniter is ignited it in turn ignites the
aluminum/sulfur igniter. This igniter reaches an incredible heat, and should
not be watched igniting without dark lensed protective eyewear, as it may
cause blindness.


4.262     Potassium Chlorate and Sugar Igniter

Author: Jack The Ripper
From: Anarchy Today, Article #5 Issue #1

    This igniter is one of my many favorites, it can be ignited by either
concentrated sulfuric or nitric acids. It also works excellently as a time
delay, which I will detail later.

Name                                            Source
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Potassium Chlorate                              Drug Stores and chemical supply
                                                houses

Sugar (Granulated)                              Grocery Store

Measuring Container (Cup, Tablespoon, etc...)
Storage Container w/tight fitting lid
Mixing Container w/tight fitting lid

Two flat boards (one large 36x36 and the other small so it can be held in
the hand).


1)    Spread handful at a time the potassium chlorate on the large board and
    rub with the other flatboard or a rolling pin until the particles
    resemble granulated sugar.

2)    Now measure out 2 parts by volume of sugar into the container, and then
    add 3 parts by volume of the Potassium Chlorate to the container.  Now
    recap the container and shake the mixture for 4-5 minutes until it has
    a uniform color and consistency.

3)    Store for future use in an air tight container, but remember to shake
    it up before use to re-mix any settled particles.


-=-=-=-
-USES!-
-=-=-=-

    Now for a delayed reaction place the acid in a gelatin capsule and
bury the gelatin capsule in the Potassium Chlorate mixture. Depending on how
many gelatin capsules you use and their size depends on the delay. It can
range from 20 minutes to and hour or more. This type of ignitor reaches a
temperature of 3,200 degrees farenheit and can ignite most incendiaries.  It
can also be compacted into a pipe to create a low power pipe bomb.


4.3     DELAYS

     A delay is a device which causes time to pass from when a device is
set up to the time that it explodes.  A regular fuse is a delay, but it would
cost quite a bit to have a 24 hour delay with a fuse.  This section deals with
the different types of delays that can be employed by a terrorist who wishes to
be sure that his bomb will go off, but wants to be out of the country when it
does.


4.31     FUSE DELAYS

     It is extremely simple to delay explosive devices that employ fuses for
ignition.  Perhaps the simplest way to do so is with a cigarette.  An average
cigarette burns for about 8 minutes. The higher the "tar" and nicotine rating,
the slower the cigarette burns. Low "tar" and nicotine cigarettes burn quicker
than the higher "tar" and nicotine cigarettes, but they are also less likely to
go out if left unattended, i.e. not smoked. Depending on the wind or draft in
a given place, a high "tar" cigarette is better for delaying the ignition of
a fuse, but there must be enough wind or draft to give the cigarette enough
oxygen to burn. People who use cigarettes for the purpose of delaying fuses
will often test the cigarettes that they plan to use in advance to make sure
they stay lit and to see how long it will burn. Once a cigarettes burn rate
is determined, it is a simple matter of carefully putting a hole all the way
through a cigarette with a toothpick at the point desired, and pushing
the fuse for a device in the hole formed.

                            |=|
                            |=| ---------- filter
                            |=|
                            | |
                            | |
                            |o| ---------- hole for fuse
 cigarette ------------     | |
                            | |
                            | |
                            | |
                            | |
                            | |
                            | |
                            | |
                            | |
                            |_| ---------- light this end

     A similar type of device can be make from powdered charcoal and a sheet
of paper.  Simply roll the sheet of paper into a thin tube, and fill it with
powdered charcoal. Punch a hole in it at the desired location, and insert a
fuse. Both ends must be glued closed, and one end of the delay must be doused
with lighter fluid before it is lit. Or, a small charge of gunpowder mixed with
powdered charcoal could conceivably used for igniting such a delay. A chain of
charcoal briquettes can be used as a delay by merely lining up a few bricks
of charcoal so that they touch each other, end on end, and lighting the first
brick. Incense, which can be purchased at almost any novelty or party supply
store, can also be used as a fairly reliable delay. By wrapping the fuse
about the end of an incense stick, delays of up to 1/2 an hour are possible.
     Finally, it is possible to make a relatively slow-burning fuse in the
home. By dissolving about one teaspoon of black powder in about 1/4 a cup of
boiling water, and, while it is still hot, soaking in it a long piece of all
cotton string, a slow-burning fuse can be made. After the soaked string dries,
it must then be tied to the fuse of an explosive device. Sometimes, the
end of the slow burning fuse that meets the normal fuse has a charge of black
powder or gunpowder at the intersection point to insure ignition, since the
slow-burning fuse does not burn at a very high temperature. A similar type of
slow fuse can be made by taking the above mixture of boiling water and black
powder and pouring it on a long piece of toilet paper. The wet toilet paper
is then gently twisted up so that it resembles a firecracker fuse, and is
allowed to dry.

4.32     TIMER DELAYS

     Timer delays, or "time bombs" are usually employed by an individual who
wishes to threaten a place with a bomb and demand money to reveal its location
and means to disarm it.  Such a device could be placed in any populated place
if it were concealed properly.  There are several ways to build a timer delay.
By simply using a screw as one contact at the time that detonation is desired,
and using the hour hand of a clock as the other contact, a simple timer can be
made. The minute hand of a clock should be removed, unless a delay of less
than an hour is desired.

            ___________________________________  to igniter      from igniter
            |                                  |
            |               12                 |      :            :
            |         11           1           |      :            :
            |                                  |      :            :
            |     10                   2       |      :            :
            |                 o................|......:            :
            |                                  |                   :
            |   9                         3    |                   :
            |                                  |                   :
            |                                  |                   :
            |    8                      4      |                   :
            |                        o.........|......             :
            |          7             5         |     :             :
            |                 6                |     :.+.....-.....:
            |__________________________________|     __|_____|
                                        |           |
                                        |  battery  |
          o - contacts                  |           |
          ..... - wire                  |           |
                                        |___________|

     This device is set to go off in eleven hours.  When the hour hand of the
clock reaches the contact near the numeral 5, it will complete the circuit,
allowing current to flow through the igniter or squib.

     The main disadvantage with this type of timer is that it can only be set
 for a maximum time of 12 hours.  If an electronic timer is used, such as that in
an electronic clock, then delays of up to 24 hours are possible.  By removing
the speaker from an electronic clock, and attaching the wires of a squib or
igniter to them, a timer with a delay of up to 24 hours can be made.  To utilize
this type of timer, one must have a socket that the clock can be plugged into.
All that one has to do is set the alarm time of the clock to the desired time,
connect the leads, and go away.  This could also be done with an electronic
watch, if a larger battery were used, and the current to the speaker of the
watch was stepped up via a transformer.  This would be good, since such a timer
could be extremely small.  The timer in a VCR (Video Cassette Recorder) would
be ideal.  VCR's can usually be set for times of up to a week.  The leads from
the timer to the recording equipment would be the ones that an igniter or squib
would be connected to.  Also, one can buy timers from electronics stores that
would be ideal.  Finally, one could employ a digital watch, and use a relay, or
electro-magnetic switch to fire the igniter, and the current of the watch would
not have to be stepped up.

4.33     CHEMICAL DELAYS

     Chemical delays are uncommon, but they can be extremely effective in
some cases.  If a glass container is filled with concentrated sulfuric acid,
and capped with several thicknesses of aluminum foil, or a cap that it will eat
through, then it can be used as a delay.  Sulfuric acid will react with aluminum
foil to produce aluminum sulfate and hydrogen gas, and so the container must be
open to the air on one end so that the pressure of the hydrogen gas that is
forming does not break the container. See diagram on following page.
                _               _
               | |             | |
               | |             | |
               | |             | |
               | |_____________| |
               | |             | |
               | |  sulfuric   | |
               | |             | |
               | |  acid       | |
               | |             | |---------- aluminum foil
               | |_____________| |           (several thicknesses)
               |_________________|

     The aluminum foil is placed over the bottom of the container and secured
there with tape.  When the acid eats through the aluminum foil, it can be used
to ignite an explosive device in several ways.

     1) Sulfuric acid is a good conductor of electricity.  If the acid that
        eats through the foil is collected in a glass container placed
        underneath the foil, and two wires are placed in the glass container,
         a current will be able to flow through the acid when both of the
        wires are immersed in the acid.

     2) Sulfuric acid reacts very violently with potassium chlorate.  If
        the acid drips down into a container containing potassium chlorate,
        the potassium chlorate will burst into flame.  This flame can be
        used to ignite a fuse, or the potassium chlorate can be the igniter
        for a thermit bomb, if some potassium chlorate is mixed in a 50/50
        ratio with the thermit, and this mixture is used as an igniter for
        the rest of the thermit.

     3) Sulfuric acid reacts with potassium permangenate in a similar way.

4.331     Chemical Time Delay Fuse

    To get an understanding of how this is going to work, mix up equal
parts by volume Potassium chlorate and granulated sugar. Pour a spoonful of the
spoon. Using a medicine dropper, place one drop of concentrated sulfuric acid
in the depression and step back. It will snap and crackle a few times and
then burst into vigorous flames. To make the fuse, cut about 2 inches off a
plastic drinking straw. Tamp a small piece of cotton in one end. On top of
this put about an inch of the clorate/sugar mixture. Now lightly tamp
in about a quarter inch of either glass wool or asbestos fibers. Secure this
with the open end up and drop in 3 or 4 drops of sulfuric acid. After a few
minutes the acid will soak through the fibers and ignite the mixture. The time
delay can be controled by the amount of fiber used and by varying how tightly
it is packed. Don't use cotton for this. The acid will react with cotton
and become weakened in the process. By punching a hole in the side of the
straw, a piece of blackmatch or other fuse can be inserted and used to set
off the device of your choice. Potassium chlorate was very popular
with the radical underground. It can be used to make a wide variety of
explosives and incendiaries, some of them extremely dangerous to handle. The
radicals lost several people that way. But, don't worry. I am not going to try
to protect you from yourself.

4.332     Chemical Time Delayed Fuse II

by:    Capt. Hack and Grey Wolf.
from:    <<< Pyro Book ][ >>>

1    teaspoon of potassium permanganate
1    tin can
    glycerin

1) Put 1 teaspoon full of of potassium permanganate in a tin can.
2) Add glycerine
3) Wait 3-4 min.
4) Get the hell out.. the stuff will smoke, then burst into flame..

Note:
-----
** potasium permanganate stains like iodine but worse [it's purple].
** the reaction will spatter a bit ->it can be messy...
** it doesn't matter if the amounts are uneven [ie. 1 part to 3 parts]

4.4     EXPLOSIVE CONTAINERS

     This section will cover everything from making a simple firecracker to
a complicated scheme for detonating an insensitive high explosive, both of which
are methods that could be utilized by perpetrators of terror.

4.41     PAPER CONTAINERS

     Paper was the first container ever used for explosives, since it was
first used by the Chinese to make fireworks. Paper containers are usually very
simple to make, and are certainly the cheapest. There are many possible uses
for paper in containing explosives, and the two most obvious are in firecrackers
and rocket engines. Simply by rolling up a long sheet of paper, and gluing it
together, one can make a simple rocket engine. Perhaps a more interesting and
dangerous use is in the firecracker. The firecracker shown here is one of
Mexican design. It is called a "polumna", meaning "dove". The process of their
manufacture is not unlike that of making a paper football. If one takes a sheet
of paper about 16 inches in length by 1.5 inches wide, and fold one corner so
that it looks like this:

       ________________________________________________________
       |                                                      |\
       |                                                      | \
       |                                                      |  \
       |______________________________________________________|___\

       and then fold it again so that it looks like this:
       _______________________________________________________
       |                                                     /|
       |                                                    / |
       |                                                   /  |
       |__________________________________________________/___|

      A pocket is formed.  This pocket can be filled with black powder, pyrodex,
flash powder, gunpowder,rocket engine powder, or any of the quick-burning fuel-
oxodizer mixtures that occur in the form of a fine powder.  A fuse is then
inserted, and one continues the triangular folds, being careful not to spill
out any of the explosive.  When the polumna is finished, it should be taped
together very tightly, since this will increase the strength of the container,
and produce a louder and more powerful explosion when it is lit.  The finished
polumna should look like a 1/4 inch - 1/3 inch thick triangle, like the one
shown below:


             ^
            / \  ----- securely tape all corners
           /   \
          /     \
         /       \
        /         \
       /           \____________________________
      /_____________\__/__/__/__/__/__/__/__/__/  ---------- fuse

4.42     METAL CONTAINERS

     The classic pipe bomb is the best known example of a metal-contained
explosive.  Idiot anarchists take white tipped matches and cut off the match
heads.  They pound one end of a pipe closed with a hammer, pour in the white-
tipped matches, and then pound the other end closed.  This process often kills
the fool, since when he pounds the pipe closed, he could very easily cause
enough friction between the match heads to cause them to ignite and explode the
unfinished bomb.  By using pipe caps, the process is somewhat safer, and the
less stupid anarchist would never use white tipped matches in a bomb.  He would
buy two pipe caps and threaded pipe (fig. 1).  First, he would drill a hole in
one pipe cap, and put a fuse in it so that it will not come out, and so powder
will not escape during handling.  The fuse would be at least 3/4 an inch long
inside the bomb.  He would then screw the cap with the fuse in it on tightly,
possibly putting a drop of super glue on it to hold it tight.  He would then
pour his explosive powder in the bomb.  To pack it tightly, he would take a
large wad of tissue paper and, after filling the pipe to the very top, pack the
powder down, by using the paper as a ramrod tip, and pushing it with a pencil
or other wide ended object, until it would not move any further.  Finally, he
would screw the other pipe cap on, and glue it. The tissue paper would help
prevent some of the powder from being caught in the threads of the pipe or pipe
cap from being crushed and subject to friction, which might ignite the powder,
causing an explosion during manufacture. An assembled bomb is shown in fig. 2.
      _________           _______________          __________
     |       |     ^^^^^^               ^^^^^^    |        |
     | |vvvvv|    |_________________________|     |vvvvvv| |
     | |                                                 | |
     | |                                                 | |
     | |                                                 | |
     | |                                                 | |
     | |           ___________________________           | |
     | |          |                           |          | |
     | |^^^^^|     vvvvvv_______________vvvvvv    |^^^^^^| |
     |_______|                                    |________|

     fig 1. Threaded pipe and endcaps.
          ________                                ________
          | _____|________________________________|_____ |
          | |__________________________________________| |
          | |: : : : |- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -| |
          | | tissue | - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - |_|
          | | : : :  |- - - low order explosive - - ----------------------
          | | paper  | - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - |-|    fuse
          | |: : : : |- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -| |
          | |________|_________________________________| |
          | |__________________________________________| |
          |______|                                |______|

          endcap                pipe               endcap
                                                   w/ hole

     fig. 2  Assembled pipe bomb.

     This is one possible design that a mad bomber would use.  If, however,
he did not have access to threaded pipe with endcaps, he could always use a
piece of copper or aluminum pipe, since it is easily bent into a suitable
position.  A major problem with copper piping, however, is bending and folding
it without tearing it; if too much force is used when folding and bending copper
pipe, it will split along the fold.  The safest method for making a pipe bomb
out of copper or aluminum pipe is similar to the method with pipe and endcaps.
First, one flattens one end of a copper or aluminum pipe carefully, making sure
not to tear or rip the piping.  Then, the flat end of the pipe should be folded
over at least once, if this does not rip the pipe.  A fuse hole should be
drilled in the pipe near the now closed end, and the fuse should be inserted.
Next, the bomb-builder would fill the bomb with a low order explosive, and pack
it with a large wad of tissue paper.  He would then flatten and fold the other
end of the pipe with a pair of pliers.  If he was not too dumb, he would do this
slowly, since the process of folding and bending metal gives off heat, which
could set off the explosive.  A diagram is presented below:

                                                     ________
     _______________________________________________/       |
     |                                                      |
     |                                                  o   |
     |______________________________________________        |
                                                    \_______|

     fig. 1  pipe with one end flattened and fuse hole drilled (top view)
                                                  ______
     ____________________________________________/  |  |
     |                                              |  |
     |                                            o |  |
     |___________________________________________   |  |
                                                 \__|__|

     fig. 2  pipe with one end flattened and folded up (top view)

                              ____________ fuse hole
                              |
                              v
     _________________________________________________
     |                             \ |____ |
     |                              \____| |
     |                               ______|
     |                              /
     |_____________________________/__________________

     fig. 3  pipe with flattened and folded end (side view)

                                                _________________ fuse
                                               /
                                               |
      ________   ______________________________|___   _______
      |  ____|  /     |- - - - - - - - - - -| - -  \  |___  |
      |  |_____/tissue| - - - - - - - - - - - -|- - \_____| |
      |________ paper |- - -  low order explosive -  _______|
            \         | - - - - - - - - - - - - - - /
             \_____________________________________/

     fig. 4  completed bomb, showing tissue paper packing and explosive
                (side view)

      A CO2 cartridge from a B.B gun is another excellent container for
a low-order explosive.  It has one minor disadvantage: it is time consuming
to fill.  But this can be rectified by widening the opening of the cartridge
with a pointed tool.  Then, all that would have to be done is to fill the
CO2 cartridge with any low-order explosive, or any of the fast burning fuel-
oxodizer mixtures, and insert a fuse.  These devices are commonly called
"crater makers".

     A CO2 cartridge also works well as a container for a thermit incendiary
device, but it must be modified. The opening in the end must be widened, so
that the ignition mixture, such as powdered magnesium, does not explode. The
fuse will ignite the powdered magnesium, which, in turn, would ignite the
thermit.
     The previously mentioned designs for explosive devices are fine for
low-order explosives, but are unsuitable for high-order explosives, since the
latter requires a shockwave to be detonated. A design employing a smaller
low-order explosive device inside a larger device containing a high-order
explosive would probably be used. It would look something like:

                                         _______________________ fuse
                                         |
                                         |
                                         |
      _________                          |           _________
      |   ____|__________________________|___________|____   |
      |   | * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *|* * * * * * *  |   |
      |   |  * * * * * *  high explosive | * * * * * * * |   |
      |   | * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *|* * * * * * *  |   |
      |   |  *  ______    _______________|_    ______  * |   |
      |   | * * |  __|   /   - - - - - - | \   |__  | *  |   |
      |   |  *  |  |____/   low explosive - \____|  |  * |   |
      |   | * * |_______  - - - - - - - - -  _______| *  |   |
      |   |  * * * * *  \  - - - - - - - -  /  * * * * * |   |
      |   | * * * * * *  \_________________/  * * * * *  |   |
      |   |  * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * |   |
      |   | * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *  |   |
      |   |  * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * |   |
      |   |______________________________________________|   |
      |_______|                                      |_______|

     If the large high explosive container is small, such as a CO2 cartridge,
then a segment of a hollow radio antenna can be made into a low-order pipe bomb,
which can be fitted with a fuse, and inserted into the CO2 cartridge.

4.43     GLASS CONTAINERS

     Glass containers can be suitable for low-order explosives, but there
are problems with them.  First, a glass container can be broken relatively
easily compared to metal or plastic containers.  Secondly, in the
not-too-unlikely event of an "accident", the person making the device would
probably be seriously injured, even if the device was small.  A bomb made out of
a sample perfume bottle-sized container exploded in the hands of one boy, and he
still has pieces of glass in his hand.  He is also missing the final segment of
his ring finger, which was cut off by a sharp piece of flying glass...

     Nonetheless, glass containers such as perfume bottles can be used by
a demented individual, since such a device would not be detected by metal
detectors in an airport or other public place.  All that need be done is fill
the container, and drill a hole in the plastic cap that the fuse fits tightly
in, and screw the cap-fuse assembly on.

                    ________________________  fuse
                    |
                    |
                    |
               _____|_____
               | ___|___ |
               | >  |  < |  drill hole in cap, and insert fuse;
               | >  |  < |  be sure fuse will not come out of cap
               | >  |  < |
               |    |    |
               |         |
               |         |
               |         |  screw cap on bottle
               |         |
               |         |
               V         V

                 _________
                <         >
                <         >
                <         >
                  /     \
                 /       \
                /         \
               |           |  fill bottle with low-order explosive
               |           |
               |           |
               |           |
               |           |
               |___________|

     Large explosive devices made from glass containers are not practicle,
since glass is not an exceptionally strong container.  Much of the explosive
that is used to fill the container is wasted if the container is much larger
than a 16 oz. soda bottle.  Also, glass containers are usually unsuitable for
high explosive devices, since a glass container would probably not withstand
the explosion of the initiator; it would shatter before the high explosive was
able to detonate.

4.44     PLASTIC CONTAINERS

     Plastic containers are perhaps the best containers for explosives, since
they can be any size or shape, and are not fragile like glass. Plastic piping
can be bought at hardware or plumbing stores, and a device much like the ones
used for metal containers can be made. The high-order version works well with
plastic piping. If the entire device is made out of plastic, it is not
detectable by metal detectors. Plastic containers can usually be shaped by
heating the container, and bending it at the appropriate place. They can be
glued closed with epoxy or other cement for plastics. Epoxy alone can be used
as an endcap, if a wad of tissue paper is placed in the piping. Epoxy with a
drying agent works best in this type of device.

               ||               ||
               ||               ||
               ||\_____________/||
               ||               ||
               ||     epoxy     ||
               ||_______________||
               ||               ||
               ||    tissue     ||
               ||     paper     ||
               ||_______________||
               ||***************||
               ||***************||
               ||***************||
               ||***************||
               ||** explosive **||
               ||***************||
               ||***********-----------------------  fuse
               ||***************||
               ||───────────────||
               ||               ||
               ||    tissue     ||
               ||     paper     ||
               ||_______________||
               ||               ||
               ||     epoxy     ||
               || _____________ ||
               ||/             \||
               ||               ||
               ||               ||

     One end must be made first, and be allowed to dry completely before the
device can be filled with powder and fused.  Then, with another piece of tissue
paper, pack the powder tightly, and cover it with plenty of epoxy.  PVC pipe
works well for this type of device, but it cannot be used if the pipe had an
inside diameter greater than 3/4 of an inch.  Other plastic puttys can be used
int this type of device, but epoxy with a drying agent works best.

4.5     ADVANCED USES FOR EXPLOSIVES

     The techniques presented here are those that could be used by a person
who had some degree of knowledge of the use of explosives.  Some of this
information comes from demolitions books, or from military handbooks.  Advanced
uses for explosives usually involved shaped charges, or utilize a minimum amount
of explosive to do a maximum amount of damage.  They almost always involve high-
order explosives.

4.51     SHAPED CHARGES

     A shaped charge is an explosive device that, upon detonation, directs
the explosive force of detonation at a small target area. This process can be
used to breach the strongest armor, since forces of literally millions of pounds
of pressure per square inch can be generated. Shaped charges employ high-order
explosives, and usually electric ignition systems. KEEP IN MIND THAT ALL
EXPLOSIVES ARE DANGEROUS, AND SHOULD NEVER BE MADE OR USED!!

               An example of a shaped charge is shown below.

                  + wire ________           _______ - wire
                                 |         |
                                 |         |
                                 |         |
 _                      _________|_________|____________
 ^                     | ________|_________|__________ |
 |                     | |       |         |         | |
 |                     | |       \ igniter /         | |
 |                     | |        \_______/          | |
 |                     | |     priming charge        | |
 |                     | |   (mercury fulminate)     | |
 |                     | |             ^             | |
 |                     | |            / \            | |
 |                     | |           /   \           | |
 |                     | |          /     \          | |
 |                     | |         /       \         | |
 |                     | |        /         \        | |
 |                     | |       /           \       | |
                       | |      /             \      | |
 8 inches high         | |     /               \     | |
                       | |    /       high      \    | |
 |                     | |   /      explosive    \   | |
 |                     | |  /        charge       \  | |
 |                     | | /                       \ | |
 |                     | |/                         \| |
 |                     | |             ^             | |
 |                     | |            / \            | |
 |                     | |           /   \           | |
 |                     | |          /     \          | |
 |                     | |         /       \         | |
 |                     | |        /         \        | |
 |                     | |       /           \       | |
 |                     | |      /             \      | |
 |                     | |     /               \     | |
 |                     | |    /                 \    | | ------- 1/2 inch
 |                     | |   /                   \   | |         thick steel
 |                     | |  /                     \  | |         pipe
 |                     | | /                       \ | |
 |                     | |/                         \| |
 |      hole for       | |                           | |     hole for
 |      screw          | |                           | |      screw
 |                     | |                           | |
 V_______   ___________| |                           | |___________  ________
 |______|   |____________|                           |_____________| |______|

                         |<------- 8 inches -------->|

     If a device such as this is screwed to a safe, for example, it would
direct most of the explosive force at a point about 1 inch away from the opening
of the pipe. The basis for shaped charges is a cone-shaped opening in the
explosive material.  This cone should have an angle of 45 degrees.  A device
such as this one could also be attached to a metal surface with a powerful
electromagnet.

4.52     TUBE EXPLOSIVES

     A variation on shaped charges, tube explosives can be used in ways that
shaped charges cannot. If a piece of 1/2 inch plastic tubing was filled with
a sensitive high explosive like R.D.X., and prepared as the plastic explosive
container in section 4.44, a different sort of shaped charge could be produced;
a charge that directs explosive force in a circular manner. This type of
explosive could be wrapped around a column, or a doorknob, or a telephone pole.
The explosion would be directed in and out, and most likely destroy whatever
it was wrapped around. In an unbent state, a tube explosive would look like
this:

               ||      ||
               ||      ||
               ||\____/||
               || epoxy||
               ||______||
               ||      ||
               ||tissue||
               || paper||
               ||______||
               ||******||
               ||******||
               ||******||
               ||******||
               ||******||
               ||******||
               ||******||
               ||******||
               ||******||
               ||******||
               ||******||
               ||******||
               ||******||
               ||******||
               || RDX  ||
               ||******||
               ||******||
               ||******||
               ||******||
               ||******||
               ||******||
               ||******||
               ||******||
               ||******||
               ||******||
               ||******||
               ||******||
               ||******||
               ||******||
               || ____ ||
               || | s| ||
               || | q| ||
               || | u| ||
               || | i| ||
               || | b| ||
               || | b| ||
               || |__| ||
               ||__||__||
               ||tissue||
               || paper||
               ||__||__||
               ||  ||  ||
               || epoxy||
               ||  ||  ||
               || _||_ ||
               ||/ || \||
               ||  ||  ||
               ||  ||  ||
                   ||_______ + wire ______________
                   |
                   |________ - wire ______________

     When an assassin or terrorist wishes to use a tube bomb, he must wrap
it around whatever thing he wishes to destroy, and epoxy the ends of the tube
bomb together.  After it dries, he/she can connect wires to the squib wires,
and detonate the bomb, with any method of electric detonation.

4.53     ATOMIZED PARTICLE EXPLOSIONS

     If a highly flammable substance is atomized, or, divided into very small
particles, and large amounts of it is burned in a confined area, an explosion
similar to that occurring in the cylinder of an automobile is produced. The
tiny droplets of gasoline burn in the air, and the hot gasses expand rapidly,
pushing the cylinder up. Similarly, if a gallon of gasoline was atomized and
ignited in a building, it is very possible that the expanding gassed would push
the walls of the building down. This phenomenon is called an atomized particle
explosion. If a person can effectively atomize a large amount of a highly
flammable substance and ignite it, he could bring down a large building, bridge,
or other structure. Atomizing a large amount of gasoline, for example, can be
extremely difficult, unless one has the aid of a high explosive. If a gallon
jug of gasoline was placed directly over a high explosive charge, and the charge
was detonated, the gasoline would instantly be atomized and ignited. If this
occurred in a building, for example, an atomized particle explosion would surely
occur. Only a small amount of high explosive would be necessary to accomplish
this feat, about 1/2 a pound of T.N.T. or 1/4 a pound of R.D.X.  Also, instead
of gasoline, powdered aluminum could be used. It is necessary that a high
explosive be used to atomize a flammable material, since a low-order explosion
does not occur quickly enough to atomize or ignite the flammable material.


4.54     LANDMINES

Author: The Jolly Roger

    First, you need to get a pushbutton switch. Take the wires of it and
connect one to a nine volt battery connector and the other to a solar igniter
(used for launching model rockets). A very thin piece of stereo wire will
usually do the trick if you are  desperate, but I recommend the igniter.
Connect the other wire of the nine-volt battery to one end of the switch.
Connect a wire from the switch to the other lead on the solar igniter.


               switch-----------battery
                 \                  /
                  \                /
                   \              /
                    \            /
                    solar  igniter
                          |
                          |
                          |
                      explosive

    Now connect the explosive (pipe bomb, m-80, CO2 bomb, etc.) to the
igniter by attaching the fuse to the igniter (seal it with scotch tape). Now
dig a hole; not too deep but enough to cover all of the materials. Think about
what direction your enemy will be coming from and plant the switch, but leave
the button visible (not TOO visible!). Plant the explosive about 3-5 feet away
from the switch because there will be a delay in the explosion that depends on
how short your wick is, and, if a homemade wick is being used, its burning
speed. But if you get it right, and your enemy is close enough...

    BBBBBBBOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOMMMM! hahahaha


4.541     More Landmines..

Author: Dial Tone
From: -cDc- CULT OF THE DEAD COW -cDc- 1987
[ E-Z DESTRUCTION (for lack of a better title) ]

        _   _                                                      _   _
       ((___))                                                    ((___))
       [ x x ]                 cDc communications                 [ x x ]
        \   /                      presents...                     \   /
        (` ')                                                      (` ')
         (U)                                                        (U)


    This handy little item might come to work for you when you least
expect it; or, if you just want to scare the hell out of someone.

    SPST switch (Rat Shack)
2    lengths black wire
2    lenghts red wire (or paisley, or green, or..)
    large battery (6V lantern or greater)
    something to explode (M-series, rocket engine)

Ok, here's what you do:

    Take the switch (SPST normally off switch) and flip it over. On the
bottom is two contacts. Connect the black to one contact (- or ground) and
the red to the positive contact. Attach the other ends of the wires to the
respective contacts on your DC power source (car, lantern battery, series
of D cells). Here's the part where if you didn't connect the switch good
enough your hand gets blown off. Or you could wait until after the
explosive is connected before you connect to the battery. It's your
hand...

    Ok, now you need to take your other segments of wire and connect the
red and black to + and - on the othe side of the switch from the side connected
to the battery. Attach the other ends to something like an Estes Solar Igniter
for rocket engines. This can be used to detonate a rocket engine, a M-60, a
pipe bomb, several pounds of salt peter mix...think big!

    This basic switch can be used to safely start/set fire to basically
anything without messing with fuses. Anyhow, since this is a Land Mine deal,
you would bury your explosives close to the surface and either rig the switch
along with some other materials so it can detonate when stepped on, or go hide
somplace and hit the switch when a target's nearby.



4.55      Miniature Claymore Mine

Author: Jack The Ripper
From: Anarchy Today, Article #9 Issue #1

    This is devasting and should be used in malls or other heavily
trafficked areas. It has a kill range of 50 yards (half a football field),
and is one of the best I have seen, and it's fun to watch too!

Name                                            Source
----------------------------------------------------------------------------

Potassium Chlorate                              Drug Stores and Chemical
                                                Supply Houses

Nitrobenzene                                    Drug Stores (Oil of Mirbane)
                                                and Chemical Supply Houses

Measuring Container (Cup, Tablespoon, etc...)
Double-Sided Adhesive Tape
Small Alnico 5 Horseshoe Magnets
Epoxy Resin
A Lot of 1/4 Inch Ball Bearings

Soap dishes consisting of two separate halves That fit together with the
bottom half and the top half bevelled

Flat board 36x36 and another flat board or Rolling Pin

1)    First off crush the Potassium Chlorate between the two boards or
    with the rolling pin until it is a very very very fine powder.

2)    Fill the top half of the soap dish to a depth of 3/4 inch with 1/4
    inch diameter ball bearings held together with a light coating of
    epoxy resin.

3)    Now cut a hole in the bottom half and cover it with tape.  The hole
    should be big enough for you to pour the nitrobenzene into later and
    big enough to fit a detonater into.

4)    Now pack the bottom half tightly with Potassium Chlorate, very tightly
    leaving no extra room.

5)    Now tape the two halves together tightly, and your pretty much done.


-=-=-=-
-USES!-
-=-=-=-

1)    When your ready to use your charge simply pour in the nitrobenzene.
    The correct ratio is 1 part by volume of nitrobenzene to 4 parts
    by volume of potassium chlorate. Now if you didn't read this through
    and keep track of the amount of potassium chlorate you used, then you
    fucked up and won't get optimum results.

2)    Now allow the nitrobenzene to soak in for 4-6 minutes, and then insert
    your electronically initiated or time fused detonater into the hole.
    Now seal around the hole with epoxy resin

3)    Now use the magnets and the tape to attach the charge 3 feet above the
    ground with the ball bearing side facing outward.

4)    Now you can either use an egg timer or a stepswitch (Underground
    detonater activated by weight) or you can use the good old time fuse
    running into a mini-compound detonater.



4.6     BOMBS

4.61     DISGUISED BOMBS

    That is, bombs that are designed to go off when some object is used,
for example the classic lightbulb bomb.

4.611     LIGHTBULB BOMBS

     An automatic reaction to walking into a dark room is to turn on the
light.  This can be fatal, if a lightbulb bomb has been placed in the overhead
light socket.  A lightbulb bomb is surprisingly easy to make.  It also comes
with its own initiator and electric ignition system.  On some lightbulbs, the
lightbulb glass can be removed from the metal base by heating the base of a
lightbulb in a gas flame, such as that of a blowtorch or gas stove.  This must
be done carefully, since the inside of a lightbulb is a vacuum.  When the glue
gets hot enough, the glass bulb can be pulled off the metal base.  On other
bulbs, it is necessary to heat the glass directly with a blowtorch or
oxy-acetylene torch.  When the bulb is red hot, a hole must be carefully poked
in the bulb, remembering the vacuum state inside the bulb.  In either case,
once the bulb and/or base has cooled down to room temperature or lower, the
bulb can be filled with an explosive material, such as black powder.  If the
glass was removed from the metal base, it must be glued back on to the base
with epoxy.  If a hole was put in the bulb, a piece of duct tape is sufficient
to hold the explosive in the in the bulb.  Then, after making sure that the
socket has no power by checking with a working lightbulb, all that need be
done is to screw the lightbulb bomb into the socket.  Such a device has been
used by terrorists or assassins with much success, since nobody can search the
room for a bomb without first turning on the light.

4.6111     Light bulb bomb (click...booom!) The Mojo/Smith method

    Take a light bulb (brass based preferably so you can solder the wires
back when you are done). Unsolder the two wires that are soldered to the brass.
(one at the center of the bass and one on the side). Remove the base taking
care not to damage the bulb or filiment.

    Take a pair of needle-nosed pliers and snap the glass nipple that is
now exposed. Fill the bulb (not completely) via the hole you just made with
gasoline. Plug the hole with silicone or something. Put the base back on.
Resolder the wires, screw into light fixture (with power off of course!),
turn on light, and ... booom!

4.6112     Light bulb bomb, The Shadow Hawk Method

Author: (_>Shadow Hawk 1<_)

    I actually got this from a movie, and have tried it [It works!!!].
Ok you may have to do this a couple times before you get it.

    A few light bulbs
    Torch [One that will melt glass, the radio shack single
           cylinder model will do]
    Some gasoline
    Some liquid soap
    Some epoxy glue


Heres what you do:

1)     Make a hole in the light bulb like this:

           *
          ---
          : :
  Make hole here  : :  or here.
        \ / \ /
         /   \
        :     :
        :     :
         \---/
         Not here!!!!!

2)     Making the hole, like in the diagram [don't make it on the bottom,
because if the seal you will make should break, the person/room you want to
eliminate will notice the hole [and the gasoline on the floor!!!] whereas if
its on top it will still work.

3)     Now carefully fill the light bulb about half full with gas, and then
the rest with soap [hold on an angle if you have to]. Now epoxy the hole shut,
and screw it in.

Have Phun

4.6113     Napalm Light Bulb Bomb

    You can replace a light bulb with a bomb that you know that person
will use. A light bulb can be made by:

    (A) Getting a torch (such as a propane torch via k-mart)
    (B) Taking a light bulb and applying the torch to where the base of
        the bulb (the part you screw in) and the actual bulb meet.
    (C) After a little while the glass will become soft allowing you to
        carefully remove the base from the bulb itself (Be careful not to
        damage the filament)
    (D) Now fill the bulb with napalm (gas/dishsoap)
    (E) Now take super-glue and apply it to the glass where the base and
        glass meet (along the rim)
    (F) Now insert the base into the bulb carefully.
    (G) Allow to dry and you got yourself a bomb
    (H) Now replace in a fixture your enemy is to use the regular light
        bulb with the one you made. Make sure the lamp/desk light is off!

    Now when your enemy turns on the light, he/she is in for a surprise.
But be forewarned this will most likely kill or seriously injure this person.
For a good tutorial on how to make a light bulb bomb rent the movie
'The Soldier' with Scott Glenn. There is a very detailed scene describing how
to make it.


4.612     BOOK BOMBS

     Concealing a bomb can be extremely difficult in a day and age where
perpetrators of violence run wild.  Bags and briefcases are often searched
by authorities whenever one enters a place where an individual might intend
to set off a bomb.  One approach to disguising a bomb is to build what is
called a book bomb; an explosive device that is entirely contained inside of
a book.  Usually, a relatively large book is required, and the book must be of
the hardback variety to hide any protrusions of a bomb.  Dictionaries, law
books, large textbooks, and other such books work well.  When an individual
makes a bookbomb, he/she must choose a type of book that is appropriate for
the place where the book bomb will be placed.  The actual construction of a
book bomb can be done by anyone who possesses an electric drill and a coping
saw.  First, all of the pages of the book must be glued together.  By pouring
an entire container of water-soluble glue into a large bucket, and filling
the bucket with boiling water, a glue-water solution can be made that will
hold all of the book's pages together tightly.  After the glue-water solution
has cooled to a bearable temperature, and the solution has been stirred well,
the pages of the book must be immersed in the glue-water solution, and each
page must be thoroughly soaked.  It is extremely important that the covers of
the book do not get stuck to the pages of the book while the pages are drying.
Suspending the book by both covers and clamping the pages together in a vice
works best.  When the pages dry, after about three days to a week, a hole must
be drilled into the now rigid pages, and they should drill out much like wood.
Then, by inserting the coping saw blade through the pages and sawing out a
rectangle from the middle of the book, the individual will be left with a shell
of the book's pages.  The pages, when drilled out, should look like this:

               ________________________
               | ____________________ |
               | |                  | |
               | |                  | |
               | |                  | |
               | |                  | |
               | |                  | |
               | |                  | |
               | |                  | |
               | |                  | |
               | |                  | |
               | |                  | |
               | |                  | |
               | |__________________| |
               |______________________|

                 (book covers omitted)

     This rectangle must be securely glued to the back cover of the book.
After building his/her bomb, which usually is of the timer or radio controlled
variety, the bomber places it inside the book.  The bomb itself, and whatever
timer or detonator is used, should be packed in foam to prevent it from rolling
or shifting about.  Finally, after the timer is set, or the radio control has
been turned on, the front cover is glued closed, and the bomb is taken to its
destination.

4.613     PHONE BOMBS

     The phone bomb is an explosive device that has been used in the past
to kill or injure a specific individual.  The basic idea is simple: when the
person answers the phone, the bomb explodes.  If a small but powerful high
explosive device with a squib was placed in the phone receiver, when the
current flowed through the receiver, the squib would explode, detonating the
high explosive in the person's hand.  Nasty.  All that has to be done is
acquire a squib, and tape the receiver switch down. Unscrew the mouthpiece
cover, and remove the speaker, and connect the squib's leads where it was.
Place a high explosive putty, such as C-1 (see section 3.31) in the receiver,
and screw the cover on, making sure that the squib is surrounded by the C-1.
Hang the phone up, and leave the tape in place.  When the individual to whom
the phone belongs attempts to answer the phone, he will notice the tape, and
remove it.  This will allow current to flow through the squib.  Note that
the device will not explode by merely making a phone call; the owner of the
phone must lift up the receiver, and remove the tape.  It is highly probable
that the phone will be by his/her ear when the device explodes...


4.614     The Fiery Explosive Pen

Author: Blue Max of Anarchist-R-Us

    Here's a GREAT little trick to play on your best fiend (no thats not a
typo) at skool, or maybe as a practial joke on a friend!

1    ball point `Click` pen
    gun powder
8-10    match heads
1    match stick
    a little sheet of sand paper (1 1/2" X 2")


1]   Unscrew pen and remove all parts but leave the button in the top
     in the pen.
2]   Stick the match stick in the part of the pen clicker where the
     other little parts and the ink fill was.
3]   Roll sand paper up and put around the match stick that is in the
     clicker.
4]   Put the remaining Match Heads inside the pen, make sure that they
     are on the inside on the sand paper.
5]   Put a small piece of paper or something in the other end of the
     pen where the ball point comes out.
6]   Fill the end with the piece of paper in it with gun powder. The
     paper is to keep the powder from spilling.

The Finished pen should look like this:

   Small Paper Clog      Gun Powder         Matches & Sandpaper
       \                     |                   |
    \                    |                    |
     \  _________________|____________________|________
       <_______________________________|_______________|===
                                /
                         Clicker   /

Planting The Device

    There are many ways to use this little device.  Here are a few of my
Favorite way to use this hendy little Anti-Personal-Device

In School:

    1]   Replace it with a friends pen, it helps if it is the same colour
         Style.  But if you get it there and he/she goes to write, watch
         the sparks fly!
    2]   You know how all these poor nigs are always asking you for a pen
         well this is the way to fix it! just give 'em this little pen and
         I guarantee they will neer ask you for another pen again.
    3]   Replace the teachers pen with it.

In The Office:

    No Office experience, unless its the schools office, replace it with
the principal's or receptionist's pens. They'll get a `bang` out of it!


4.615     LETTER BOMB

Author: The Rebel Warhead/Maelmord?

    Letter bombs are very simple to make, but the difficult part is
making sure it will detonate properly and that it is not obvious that it is
a bomb.

Mixtures:

    About 75% aluminum powder with 25% iron powder is best. This is a
light version of thermite.  Mix the above well.

The idea is this:

    Iron can burn, at a very high temperature, but it needs a little
help. This is what the aluminum is for. Aluminum burns at a relatively low
temperature, so it is used as a catalyst of sorts. Magnesium is used to
flash-ignite the aluminum, which then burns the iron, at a suitable
temperature. Since this is going off in an enclosed space, it will burn
much hotter and slower and with more violence than a normal mix. Use an
insulated (padded) envelope, the type that is double layered. Separate the
layers. in the inner layer goes the light thermite. Keep this section
separate, perhaps topping it off with some magnesium. The outer layer can
be either magnesium, for a flash bomb, or possibly a material of your own
choice.

The fuse:

    We can make a fuse from another set of chemicals: Iodine crystals,
and ammonium hydroxide in liquid form. Mix these together, in about an
equal amount. These form a new crystalline structure and are highly
volatile with the impact power of an M-100 per teaspoon. Put these in a
protective cardboard lining and place them at the top of the envelope. Rig
this so it puts pressure on the crystals when the package is opened, but
not from just squeezing the envelope. Take care in this step, for it is
vital to properly set the fuse. Seal this up, and you have a working letter
bomb. However, since the bulk of letter bombs is easily recognizable, they
rarely make it past the post office.

How to avoid letter bombs:

    Since you made it this far, you might as well know how to avoid
being detonated with a letter bomb that may be sent to you.

1)    Never open a letter bomb the way it wants to be opened! This is the
way of possibly avoiding the fuse. If it is set to detonate on contact with
air, then you can kiss some air.

2)    Don't squeeze, bend, or sneeze!

3)    If it looks like a bomb, then don't even touch it! This is the best
way to avoid meeting your maker!

    Hopefully, this information will be put to good use. Any response
or request can be routed through the Cavalier to me. If this receives a
good word from him, perhaps I will have to write a piece on
high-explosives. Fun stuff indeed! Maelmord?.

4.615     Tennis Ball Bomb

Author: Acid Reign

    Simple enough. Take tennis ball, strike anywhere matches, gunpowder.
Cut the heads off the matches. Open up the tennis ball. Fill the tennis ball
with those match heads. Pour in some gunpowder for kick. Seal the hole up with
rubber cement and duct tape. Throw at your enemy (very hard!) watch fun as he
dies!!

    These little pukes are quite powerful.. but take QUITE a shock to set
off! My advice is to practice your pitching skills before taking on an enemy
with these.. or you could end up dead, and laughed at.  Also.. NEVER SQUEEZE!!!
One time we moved a 50 lb park bench about a foot with one.

    Imagine the fun you could have, if you made a HUGE batch of these, got
a car, and one of those nice MR. TENNIS PRACTICE SERVERS. You know.. The ones
that shoot tennis balls out at high speeds for court practice!! You could take
out a fucking neigbourhood!!


4.620    Carbide Bomb

    This is EXTREMELY DANGEROUS. Exercise extreme caution. Obtain some
Calcium Carbide. This is the stuff that is used in carbide lamps and can be
found at nearly any hardware store. Take a few pieces of this stuff (it looks
like gravel) and put it in a glass jar with some water. Put a lid on tightly.
The carbide will react with the water to produce Acetylene Carbonate which is
similar to the gas used in cutting torches. Eventually the glass with explode
from internal pressure. If you leave a burning rag nearby, you will get a nice
fireball!

4.621    Mercury Battery Bomb

Author:  Phucked Agent!

1    Mercury Battery (1.5 or 1.4 V Hearing Aid)
1    working lamp with on/off switch

    It is very simple! Hurray! Kids under 18 shouldn't consider trying
this one or else they might get mercuric acid on their faces!

1. Turn the lamp switch on to see if lightbulb lights up.
2. If it works, leave the switch on and unplug the cord
3. Unscrew the bulb (Dont touch the hot-spot!)
4. Place 1 Mercury Battery in the socket and make sure that
   it is touching the Hot-spot contact.
5. Move any object or furniture - Why? There may be sparks given off!
6. Now for my favorite part, stand back and plug in cord in the socket.
7. And you will have fun!!  Like Real Party!!!

    If your house is on fire (VERY RARE), get that damm fire blower!
This stuff will NOT destroy your plugs, but maybe the fuse depending how
often you do it....    Best fun is outside a college dorm.

4.622    Milk Carton Bomb

Author:  XTX-101

    A milk carton bomb is relitively simple and safe.  It's only purpose
is to create a loud noise.

    The ingredients needed to make this are few and easy to aquire. You
will need a plastic milk carton, lighter fluid (type used in cigarette
lighters, i.e. butane), a piece of paper, and a pair of chopsticks. If you
can not obtain chop sticks, it's okay to substitute them with something that
can hold the paper and is long enough so that you won't be harmed by the flames.

    After aquiring all of the ingredients, you can now start to make the
bomb. The procedure is easy. First, puncture a hole at the bottom of the milk
carton with a screw driver or equivalent.  Next fill one-fourth of the milk
carton with lighter fluid.

    Place the milk carton in a fairly large area outside. Hold a piece of
paper between the chopsticks and light the paper with a match. Cautiously place
the lighted paper under the hole of the carton and BOOM! You have your loud
explosion with little damage to the surrounding area. It would be a good idea
to have some water handy to extinguish any flames.


4.623    A quickie bomb, stolen from MacGyver

Author: (_> Shadow Hawk 1 <_)
        (c) 1986 The J-Men

    Ok. Heres a really simple bomb that you can make from things you've
probably got lying around the house.

    A bag of fertilizer
    Some Cotton
    Some Starter Fluid (etherous kind)
    Some Newspaper

    Ok. You fold the newspaper until its in sort of a pocket shape, then
fill it up with fertilizer (not too much). Next, you put cotton on top of the
fertiliser. Then, pour some starter fluid on it (the fertiliser), wrap up the
newspaper (you can use tape). Now this isn't the kind of bomb you leave lying
around for a couple days, as it drys out. When you want to use it, just light
the edge of the newspaper and throw it. Pretty simple, eh?

Have Phun, and don't get caught!

P.S. I never noticed before, but all the formulae that the dude on MacGyver
uses are real. (I checked quite a few of em).


4.624    Fire Bomb

    Take Carbon Disulfide and dissolve white phosphorous in it. Put it in
a stoppered bottle and throw it at something you would like to see on fire.
When the CS2 evaporates, it leaves a film of phosphorous on what ever it hits,
and it starts a fire with the solvent vapors.


4.625    The Chlorox-Draino Bomb

Author: The Mortician

    I am not too sure on how this works but I am pretty sure that you can
make a really powerful bomb by taking a can of draino and mixing it with
Chlorox. I think that these two compuonds will spontaneously explode so don't
just pour them together. I think what you do is get the draino in a cardboard
can and then put it in a bucket of Chlorox and what will happen is either the
draino or Chlorox will eat through the cardboard and they will meet and explode.

    You might want to experiment with this by rigging it up so you can
cause the two to combine while you stand a distance a way. I recommend extreme
caution with this and wear goggles definately. Just like pour some Chlorox into
a pan and then have a can of Draino with a string tied to it so you can make it
spill into the Chlorox... Be careful. I don't need a law suit.

4.626    Dry Ice Bombs

Recipe 1:

    Get a small plastic container with lid (we used the small plastic cans
that hold the coaters used for large-format Polaroid film). A film canister
would probably work; the key is, it should seal tightly and take a fair amount
of effort to open).

    Place a chunk of dry ice in the can, put on the lid without quite
sealing it. Put the assembled bomb in your pocket, or behind your back.

    Approach the mark and engage in normal conversation. When his attention
is drawn away, quickly seal the lid on the bomb, deposit it somewhere within a
few feet of the mark, out of obvious sight, then leave.

    Depending on variables (you'll want to experiment first), you'll hear
a loud "pop" and an even louder "Aarrggghhh!" within a minute, when the CO2
pressure becomes sufficient to blow off the lid.

    In a cluttered lab, this is doubly nasty because the mark will probably
never figure out what made the noise.

Recipe 2:

    Put 2-3 inches of water in a 2-liter plastic pop bottle. Put in as
many chunks of dry ice as possible before the smoke gets too thick. Screw on
the cap, place in an appropriate area, and run like hell. After about a minute
(your mileage may vary), a huge explosion will  result, spraying water
everywhere, along with what's left of the 2 litre bottle.


4.627    Electric Break-Contacts Bomb

Author: The Jolly Roger

    It starts when a big, dumb lummox rudely insults you. Being of a
rational, intelligent disposition, you wisely choose to avoid a (direct)
confrontation. But as he laughs in your face, you smile inwardly, your
revenge is already planned.

Step 1:    Follow your victim to his locker, car, or house.  Once you
    have chosen your target site, lay low for a week or more,
    letting your anger boil.

Step 2:    In the mean time, assemble your versatile terrorist
    kit. (details below)

Step 3:    Plant your kit at the designated target site on a Monday
    morning between the hours of 4:00 am and 6:00 am. Include a
    calm, suggestive note that quietly hints at the possibility
    of another attack. Do not write it by hand! An example of
    an effective note:

  "DoN't Be sUcH a jErK, oR tHe NEXT oNe WiLL tAKe oFf yOUr
   HAND.  hAVe a NiCe dAy."

    Notice how the calm tone instills fear.  As if written by a
    homicidal psychopath.

Step 5:    Choose a strategic location overlooking the target site. Try
    to position yourself in such a way that you can see his facial
    contortions.

Step 6: Sit back and enjoy the fireworks!
    What an economic and effective terrorist kit!

4    aa batteries
1    9-volt battery
1    spdt mini relay (radio shack)
1    rocket engine (smoke bomb or m-80)
1    solar ignitor (any hobby store)
1    9-volt battery connector

Step 1:
    Take the 9-volt battery and wire it through the relay's coil. This
circuit should also include a pair of contacts that when separated cut off
this circuit.  These contacts should be held together by trapping them between
the locker, mailbox, or car door. Once the door is opened, the contacts fall
apart and the 9-volt circuit is broken, allowing the relay to fall to the
closed postion thus closing the ignition circuit. (If all this is confusing
take a look at the schematic below).

Step 2:
    Take the 4 aa batteries and wire them in succession. Wire the positive
terminal of one to the negative terminal of another, until all four are
connected except one positive terminal and one negative terminal. Even though
the four aa batteries only combine to create 6 volts, the increase in amperage
is necessary to activate the solar ignitor quickly and effectively.

Step 3:
    Take the battery pack (made in step 2) and wire one end of it to the
relay's single pole and the other end to one prong of the solar ignitor. Then
wire the other prong of the solar ignitor back to the open position on the
relay.

Step 4:
    Using double sided carpet tape mount the kit in his locker, mailbox,
or car door. And last, insert the solar ignitor into the rocket engine
(smoke bomb or m-80).

Your kit is now complete!

                    ---------><---------
                    I    (CONTACTS)    I
                    I                  I
                    I                  -  (BATTERY)
                    I                 ---
                    I                  I
                    I      (COIL)      I
                    ------///////-------
                      /-----------
                     /           I
                    /            I
                   /             I
               (SWITCH) I        I
                        I        I
                        I       --- (BATTERY)
                        I        -  ( PACK  )
                        I       ---
                        I        I
                        I        I
                        ---- -----
                           I I
                            *
                     (SOLAR IGNITOR)


4.628     Propane/Butane Bomb

Author: Acid Reign. Also added to by GArbled User

    Well, this bomb was constructed by us in an attempt to not only make
an antipersonnel device which was easy to construct, but also to create the
biggest fireball that the world has ever seen.  So, you get the power of pure
butane, with the added advantage of simplicity in construction...have phun!

    1.  A Cannister of Butane Fuel: Easy to obtain, this can be found at just
        about any good drugstore, certainly at a hardware store.

    2.  Gun Powder: See above.

    3.  Plastic Container: Preferably a TupperWare-(tm) glass, as it will both
        melt away and explode, while glass will shatter with heat, and metal
        will not explode.

    4.  A Fuse: You can buy these in places, but if you don't want to go thru
        the hassle, simply rub model glue all over a string, it'll work just
        as well.

    5.  Masking Tape: Or electrical tape, or cellophane tape, or whatever kind
        of tape that you've got lying 'round the house.

Assembly:

    1.  Fill the plastic container with 1/4 to 1/2 inch of powder.
    2.  Center the butane in the container, atop the powder.
    3.  Fill the rest of the container with powder, around the butane.  Pack
        it down -- lightly, just so that it fully fills in the container.

    4.  Insert the fuse at least 1/2 inch into the powder, and pack the
        surrounding powder as in step 3.  Seal the top of the container around
        the butane with a small covering of masking tape.

    5.  Plant the device in a target area.
    6.  Light the fuse, and...
    7.  RUN LIKE HELL!!

    8.  (Detonation): If this is done correctly, and you get well out of range
        of the fireball, the immediate, (and non-immediate), area will be "up
        in smoke," persay.

______________________________________________________________________________

                      A Diagram of Proper Construction

                                         __|  Butane   |
                                        /  | Cannister |
                          >*<      _   /
                           |      | | /
                            \    _| |_       __|   Tape   |
               | Bomb |______|  /     \     /  | Covering |
               | Fuse |     _|_|       |___/
                           |.|.|       |.:.|
                           |:|:|_______|:.:|_
                           |.|.|       |.:.| \
                           |:|:| RONCO |:.:|  \__|  Plastic  |
                           |.:.|_______|.:.|     | Container |
                           |:.:|       |:.:|
                           |.:.|       |.:.|
                           |:.:|       |___|______| Notice the "designer" |
                           |_:.|_______|.:.|      |   butane fuel, here!  |
              |  Gun   |__/|:.:.:.:.:.:.:.:|
              | Powder |   |_______________|

                       Acid Reign  - and -  Riff Raff
______________________________________________________________________________

Now for the Garbled User enhancements!!!

- Use propane instead of Butane.
- Use an oxygen tank along with the butane/propane.(BIG WHITE BOOM!!)
- Ever see those HUGE propane canisters used in outdoor BBQ's? Get the idea?!?
- No oxygen tanks?? Use Whipped Cream (in the spray container)

[Eds: Nitrogen Dioxide, such as in these whipped cream bulbs make a 3 or 4m
fireball from just the little canister alone, with a bang as loud as a shotgun!]

- No butane/propane?? Use WD40 or other aerosols!! (WD40 and other lubricants
  are the best tho)

    All of these should make your little butane bomb capable of nuking a
city.. Or.. just drop yours off by the local propane cylinder exchange at your
corner store.. heh heh..

Of course.. there are those HUGE propane canisters.(6-20 ft long!!)
Now those would be fun to watch.

4.629     The Peanut Butter Bomb.

    I was inspired by Acid Reign to write this file.. Bravo Acid..!
Possibly you've heard of the almighty gerbil feed bomb. Well.. this is a
variation of that WONDERFUL anti-personnel device.

    Jiff Peanut butter Jar (NOT PLASTIC!)
    Gasoline
    Some gunpowder (empty a few shotgun shells)
    Model airplane glue
    Sugar
    Fuse (any type except electric)
    Psychotic tendency

    Ok.. Mix the gunpowder with the sugar in a 10:1 ratio. Then add enough
model glue to thoroughly coat the mixture. Mix the glue and the mixture so
that the newly formed mixture becomes VERY sticky. Half fill the peanut butter
jar with this. Now, add the gasoline. Fill the jar the rest of the way up.
Close the jar.

    Shake vigorously (not TOO vigorously!). Now drill a hole in the lid.
Put the fuse in the jar. Light the fuse. And unless you are quite a far way
away from this little toy when it explodes.. prepare to die. The only drawback
to this bomb is.. if you add the gasoline a while before you set the bomb off,
it may jam up. Of course.. you can overcome this by pouring the gasoline in
JUST before you plant the bomb. This bomb will have about 2 - 10 times the
power of the gerbil feed bomb.

HAVE A BLAST! (literally)
(c) 1999 GarBlEd UsEr      All rights blown to hell.

4.630     The BIC BomB!

Author: Garbled User

    This is a very simple, and powerful grenade, and can be made MORE
powerful with some BB's and glue. Take a lighter, preferably with LOTS of
fluid. (BIC disposable) Pull the metal thing off the top, now pull the little
wheel out.

    Optional:Coat with glue and roll in BB's!

    Now.. Light the little plastic bits at the top(heat until they bubble!)
and THROW!!  Should make a nice BIG fireball. If you included the optional step
watch your opponents die from a shotgun-like blast!


4.631     The Gerbil Feed Bomb

Author: Acid Reign

    This is a simple weapon.. Have a pet? Small rodent perhaps??
    Modeling Cement?? EVEN better!

    Great, now get some gasoline, a glass jar, and a wick. (See later text
for how to on wicks!)

    Take the glass jar, Powder up the pet food, (preferably green pellets
but the little cylindyrs do nicely) Now take the modeling cement.. POUR it in.
Mix thouroughly.. Now that you've TOTALLY emptied about 2 glue containers into
the mixture. Fill the rest of the bottle with gasoline. (did I forget to mention
the gerbil feed should only about half fill the container?) Shake [do not stir
- Eds! =] . Now take Mr. Wick, and put it in through the top. Light, run, hit
the dirt!!!

VERY powerful.. one went off in Beirut and killed 57 people!!


4.632     How to make a SAFEr Carbide Bomb!

Author:
                  ,
             *****{================-
                  '  the Sentinel (of the FBI)


    Ever make a carbide bomb and have it go off in yer face? Yes, No?
Well, here's a REALLY simple way to do such that is so mind bogglingly obvious
I'm suprised I didn't read it elsewhere (yep, an FBI first!)

First:

    I'll tell you how to make a regular Carbide bomb, and also explain why
they suck. First off, go somewhere and TRY to get some Calcium Carbide. Now
this is sometimes called "Lantern Fuel" They always say that you can get it in
any hardware store... WRONG you'll end up looking like an asshole "Duuh, got
any <fillinablank>" Sometimes you can get it in "Hickville" hardware stores..
(if the guy behind the counter is wearing Flannel, has a sunburnt neck, and has
a beard, chances are, yer in hickville) another possible location is
"Spieleology" shops (people who climb in caves) ask fer lantern fuel, you can
usually buy it in "Economy Size" (ie: enough to blow the hell outta city block)

    The only place I seem to have found it is in the closet marked "Danger
chemicals, Do NOT enter" in the science labs. it will look like gravel with
brownish powder. and will smell like pig shit. Take a bottle, put a bit of
water in it (about a third to half of the bottle) then place a handful of
calcium carbide in the bottle (1 handful per 1/2 litre or an average "Soda
bottle").

    Unfortunately as soon as the Calcium Carbide (i'll call it CC from
now on cause i hate to type as much as you hate to read) AS soon as the CC
hits the water it starts reacting, forming a gas not unlike acetylene (the
stuff in cutting torches) now, this stuff spatters all over yer hands, clothes,
the floor, and if you cap it (if you can manage) it blows up almost
instantaneously. Ruining yer complexion.


    Yes now you can have the really improved Sentinel Version! <applause>
take the bottle, and get yer normal run of the mill balloon, ie: the things
you fill with water and throw out windows of cars. Take the water balloon and
stick it on the end of a faucet just like you would for a water balloon, now
slide the bottle opening over the balloon. THEN fill it with water. once there
is sufficient water (ie: 1/3 to 1/2 of the bottle size) tie the water balloon
(which SHOULD be inside the bottle) now take the CC bomb to wherever you want
it, and throw the CC in, then cap it. If you notice the thing does NOT spurt
out, because the water is in the balloon.  Now, shake the bomb until the
balloon breaks, then set it down (you have approximately 30 seconds before you
hear a BOOM! and shattered glass goes flying about 20 feet).

    What's really fun, is arm it (fill the balloon, add CC and cap but do
NOT shake it) then tape it to the bottom of a gas tank on a car, or any other
vehicle, or just toss it in the back of a truck.  Eventually the balloon will
rupture from either the knocking around it gets or the reaction of the CC and
the small amount of water that always seems to get in the jar. For added
excitement, leave a burning rag nearby or pour napalm on the bottle and light
it (napalm = gasoline + lots of styrofoam peanuts) you'll get a HUGE fireball.

    REMEMBER: FBI takes no responsibility for anything you do anytime,
EVER. So be careful. And if yer gonna put it on someones doorstep and ring the
bell. Make sure its someone you REALLY hate, cause at close range, this will
REALLY fuck someone up.

[Same goes for us - Eds]


4.633     "Deadman's Switch" Soda Can Bomb


    This is one of  the most deadly, evil,  vile, destuctive and just plain
dire  explosive  devices  known  to  the  FBI.  This  weapon  operates  on  the
"Deadman's  Switch"  theory, but is easily  disguised as an innocent recyclable
object.  The  reason it is so  demonic, is that once it is set, merely TOUCHING
the device will  set it off.  Thus one  could place it on a  doorstep, behind a
car, or just  in the middle of the street  where some  innocent passer-by could
mistakenly set  it  off.  Even  worse,  some  cheap  fool,  or  environmentally
concious  person  could  set  it  off.  Depending on what type of explosive you
use, and whether  or not you add  shrapnel, the device's power could range from
a small flare, to a tremendous detonation!

    The concept  is quite simple, and will be given in an easy step by step
format, for your reading pleasure. :)

1.  Decide  what you  want to do with the bomb, to use it as a scare tactic, or
    to detonate a city block, or maybe just a small, but powerfull explosion.

2.  Pick up the following ingredients for the bomb:
       (1)   Aluminum can used for soda or beer.  Ranging from 12oz and up.
       (1)   Spool of wire, any color. Preferably solid. Fone wire works nice.
       (1)   Mercury Switch.(optional)
       (1)   Mini SPST Switch.
       (1)   SPST pushbutton switch. Normally ON.
       (1)   Spool of solder, and a nice iron. Neatness counts!
       (1)   Nine Volt Battery.

2A.     Now  here's  where your decision in step 1 counts.. If you want a scare
        tactic, Pick  up  some  flash powder (or flare powder) and a  nice 1.5V
        flashlight bulb. ( convieniently available at  your local RADIO-SHACK )

2B. WHAT!? You want to detonate a city block?!  You are a lunatic!  We must get
    together  some  time.  Go  to  your local  store and  pick up some ammonium
    nitrate ( instant  coldpacks,  or fertilizer ).  Now Aquire,  or make ( not
    advised )  a nice #8 blasting cap.   On second thought, making one might be
    better for your purposes, because you can make it MILITARY style. (75% more
    powerful then conventional blasting caps. )  #8's  have  a tendency  not to
    work well with Ammonium Nitrate.

2C. Just a nice routine explosion eh?  Pick up a  flashlight bulb ( 1.5V )  and
    some gun powder, or black powder.

3.  Take your  nice, innocent  can,  and empty the contents.  Cut the top CLEAR
    off right  under the rim.  DON'T Be messy, if you bend the can, start over.
    Neatness makes the bomb WORK.

4.  Drill a hole in  the direct center  of the  bottom  of the can,  barely big
    enough to  thread the  pushbutton switch  in, and secure  it with the handy
    bolt that comes with it.

5.  Now cut a small rectangular hole, near the inside edge of  the botom of the
    can to house the mini switch.

6.  OK, the CAN section of your process is  complete.  Time for  the hard part.
    Hope you can solder.
        Here is a nice, cheap ASCII diagram.. yes it sux.. but watcha gonna do?


                                       /           |
      |-------------------------------/ -----------|-----------|
      |                                     |     ---          |
      +  ----------------------             |                  |
      ----                    |             |-----------//-----|
      |9 |                    |                                |
      | V|                    ----------------------------     |
      |  |                                               |     |
      ----                                                \   /
                                                           \ /
                                                            0
KEY:  9V     : Nine Volt Battery.
      0      : Detonator, or flashlight bulb.

      /      : Mini SPST switch.
     /

      |      : Pushbutton switch.
      |
     ---

     //      : Mercury Switch.

     +       : Positive terminal.
     -       : Negative terminal, or wire.
     |,/,\   : Wire.


    Ok, now that I've wasted your precious time with that horrid diagram,
I will explain it.  The wires leading to and from the mercury switch are NOT
TO BE PUT in if the mercury switch is omitted.

    Simply enough, The current goes through the wires to the first  switch,
if the  first switch is ON, it goes to the  next switch,  If this switch is on,
It goes to the  detonator, which in turn explodes the  device.  I reccomend you
test your circuit with a multi-tester before you  go about  construction of the
bomb.  This will help to assure a NON-DUD.  I advize  that you  remove the nice
detonator before doing this, unless of course you are a massochist.

7.   You managed to follow the diagram and constructed the WORKING(optimal word
     here ) circuit.  OK..  now the fun begins.  Place the pushbutton switch in
     it's proper  hole, and  secure.  Do the  same with  the mini switch.  Tape
     the good ol nine-volt battery to the inside of the can. Add some epoxy for
     safety's sake.  MAKE SURE NO WIRES  TOUCH  EACHOTHER!  IF THEY DO.. well..
     alas.. a good militant was he.

8.    OK, fill the can up about 1/4th the way up with your explosive of choice.
      Pack if  desired.  Get a  small  amount of  shrapnel if  desired and  add
      generously.  Add  no  more  than  1/4th  the  total  wieght  of  the can.

9.   If you  opted to use the  mercury switch, place that here.  Place it in a
     manner so that if the can  is moved from  the vertical  direction it will
     set off the detonator.

10. If you  are  mercury-less place the detonator here. If you used the  switch
    fill  the can  with enough  explosives to cover  your newly  placed switch.
    If you have used the flashlight  bulb, now is the  time to  CAREFULLY break
    the bulb, WITHOUT damaging the filament.. test with a multi-tester.. If you
    screw up.. your bad luck.

11. If you used the  switch, place  your  detonator here.  In either case, fill
    the can the rest of the way up.

12. Get out the epoxy and glue the top back on.


    You have just made a soda can..  Now, if you are proceding with this
file, before  reading it completely, you are probably dead about now. Here's
why you died:

    During the final stages, you left the mini switch ON. This is the arming
switch, and should ONLY be used during testing, and planting.

    You managed to build up a large amount of static electricity and
discharged it into a can full of explosives. Bad move. Use ANTI-Static spray to
avoid this.

    You did this by a nice, warm open fire. Or better yet you smoked nearby
the device. Bravo on an excellent demise.

    You left the device stiing in your nice hot window sill, where it
exploded killing your family. I applaud you.

    You decided my instructions weren't good enough for you, and WINGED it.

    You let some wires touch in the final stage of construction. Avoid
this by coating all wires and leads with melted plastic, or use electical tape.
The first method is prefered.

    Well, If you got this far.. you are alive. (I hope!!)

        OK, you have yer nice, prepared device, and wish to plant it. This is
simple. Sort of. There is a danger factor involved, so be forewarned.

    Take the device to the site. DO NOT arm it until it is absolutely
ready! This is CRITICAL! The easiest place to put is is on a raised platform
perfectly vertical. The Pushbutton switch should be pushed in now, and in the
OFF position. Now CAREFULLY arm the device. CAREFULLY slide it over to about
the center of the door step, so that it gets kicked over when someone steps
outside. If you used the mercury switch, you now realize why it is optional.
If you move the can too fast, the switch will detonate you.

    If you are placing this on a large flat surface, using the mercury
switch is HIGHLY advised against! Place a VERY thin sheet of paperboard under
your can, compressing the bottom switch. Poke a hole in the bottom of the can,
so that it can be armed. Arm the device, and place it on the ground. Push down
on the top of the device, and SLOWLY remove the paperboard. If the paperboard
was thin enough you survived.

    Get the hell out of there, and DO yourself a favor, and wear gloves..
finger prints are WAY uncool.

    Ok, The mercury switch is VERY VERY dangerous, but it also makes it
absolutely impossible to disarm the bomb should someone discover it. The
paperboard can be simply cut away from the edges in the flat surface bomb.
this can be extremely  useful in circumstances  where you are placing the bomb
in an area that is very bumpy, or rocky, like loose sand or dirt. Or if you
just prefer to keep your life.


How Your Bomb Works:

    Well, simply enough, once it is armed, if the pushbutton switch is
released the circuit will be completed. With the mercury switch added, if
either the switch or the button is tripped, it will explode. The current
will set off the detonator, or if you used the flashlight bulb, it will cause
a high intensity flame to be produced for about 1-2 seconds. This is quite
enough to explode any light explosive.

    To tell you the truth, you can use any explosive that you desire with
this bomb. One time I even saw one of these made completely of THERMITE. Holy
shit the whole can just melted, and fused with the road tar. If you want, you
can use plastique, or just pour in some nitroglycerine (HA!).

Basically, it's up to you.. and it's your life.  So have fun.

(c)1999 Garbled User and the FBI.
All rights confiscated by government agents.


4.634     Chlorine Bombs

    The following article on chlorine bombs is obviously written by
someone without much experience with the most commonplace backyard bomb in
virtually all existance, although there is nothing really incorrect about
what he says, or his techinique, there are a few things I would like to point
out. Firstly, if you want to make a chlorine bomb, use brake fluid. None of
this pussy Coke stuff (the Coke reaction is only good for creating great
"Creature from the Black Lagoon" FX, as it amasses HUGE amounts of bubbling
foam), or sugar, or any of the other mixtures people tell you to go into,
because brake fluid will ignite the chlorine, and you'll get really cool
fireworks in all these different colours. The other thing is, to dispense
the chlorine, use a syringe. Just go to your local hospital and ask them
for a 50cc or so syringe. My local hospital (Royal North Shore) [Go for it,
feds!!!] has always been happy to hand out syringes via the triage nurse
when asked. You don't really need that much brake fluid, and soon out
complete analysis of chlorine bombs will be complete to add in, as well
as the amazing mortar.


Author: THE DETH VEGETABLE
From: Phantasy Magazine No.3 Section 4

Recipe 1:

    Ok this is fairly simple, all you need is some sort of jar or bottle
with a cap (I like 16 oz. - 2 litre plastic soda bottles the best, they're the
loudest). You also need maybe a tablespoon or two of granular pool chlorine,
now this stuff is expensive, so I suggest stealing a 50lb. tub of it from
someone with a pool, This is more then enough chlorine to meet anyones needs..
(I've been making these for 2 years out of the same half-tub of chlorine).

    Stealing it is the best, because a tub that size costs around $150 or
$200 to buy... ( I think, Figuring that a 7lb bucket of the stuff runs about
$35). Anyway, What you do, is take a clean, DRY bottle, and put the chlorine
in it. (just pour it in). Ok now you need a little bit of soda ( I recommend
Coca Cola , It seems to work the best). I put the Soda In a squeeze bottle
like Dishwashing liquid soap, or pancake syrup come in, that way you can get
it out fast.

    Ok heres the set up, You really need two people for this... one to
hold the bottle with the chlorine in it, and in the other hand hold the cap
ready to put on HURRIEDLY. The other person squirts the Coke in, and as soon
as he squirts in about a tablespoon  (use your brain and estimate, don't
measure, fools) of soda, the other person must QUICKLY screw on the cap and
throw the bomb, It will explode quickly...  Allright, now this bomb is VERY
loud, and when it explodes it makes Chlorine Gas (which is poisonous, so don't
walk away after bomb just exploded, unless you LIKE poisonous gasses, and
death.. that sort of thing...).

    It is also a defoliant (or something else produced in the reaction is).

[What do you fucking think chlorine is? - Eds]

So if you throw it on someones lawn, chances are there will be big swaths of
dead grass left (at least thats what it did to my lawn...) One more thing, I
suggest bending the bottle in the middle (like push one side in) before you
add the soda, so that the person who is holding it knows that as soon as he
feels it expanding (theres heat too) he has too throw it THEN, whether the cap
is on or not (otherwise It'll blow Chlorine Gas in your face... this is NOT
fun <it happened to me, but I was smart enough not to breathe, but my eyes
stung for a week>).

[Idiot - Eds]

Recipe 2:

    Basically this is the same as the other one, except you use Brake
Fluid instead of Soda as the liquid. Also, this sometimes takes longer, the
reaction can take up to two minutes or more to happen, so after you throw the
bomb, if it doesnt explode right away, DONT go pick it back up! But this
Explosion is much more spectacular, you get a fireball....  Also a cloud of
thick white smoke (which I think may be poisonous as well, at least my friend
came out of it coughing and gagging horribly, threw up.. ).

Ok, Now just a couple practicle uses for these two things:

Riots: Throw them in the midst of the police lines, its better then teargas.
Killing Spree: Throw them in the Midst of everyone, its better then teargas.

    Ah well... The riots one could be useful, If they start trying to draft
people for an imperialist invasion of Iraq, then we might actually have rioting,
wherever people stand up to the oppression of the government. (thats my bit of
leftist dogma for the day... ).


4.635      LN2, Liquid Nitrogen Bomb

Author: Doctor Dissector
From: Anarchy 'n Explosives No.1 (Vol 0)


Ingredients:     1 Plastic Two Litre Bottle
                 Enough Liquid Nitrogen To Fill The Bottle

    Fill the bottle with liquid nitrogen. Then cap as tightly as possible.
The vaporization of the nitrogen will create enough pressure in the bottle
(within 5-15 minutes) to break it with a quite strong explosive force...
Very Easy...

[Eds - this note was added by someone at the bottom of this recipe]

(Bullshit, if you fill a bottle with liquid nitrogen, the plastic will become
so brittle that it'll crack befor there is enough pressure to cause explosive
force, ALSO...Nitrogen boils at room tempature, it'd have enought pressure in a
few seconds, A minute or less.)  This putz who wrote the series stole most of
the it from a book entitled THE CHEMISTRY OF POWDER AND EXPLOSIVES.


4.636     How to make a Paper Bomb

Author: Slash (WCC)


    cardboard roll from toilet paper or from a roll of paper towels.
    (you know, one of theose tubes that you like to beat your dog with)
    some kleenexes
    some smokeless gunpowder
    (you can find it at your local sporting goods store.)
     roll of duct tape
     (you dont need the whole thing, just use what you need to and use the
      rest to tape up your shit head brother)
    about 2 feet of waterproof fuse.

Now what to do with all this shit:

    Take a wad (about 3 or 4) kleenexes and stuff the in one end of the
roll. Now take the gunpowder and and pour it into the tube about half way
up. Now take the fuse and stick it all the way down into the powder. Now
take another wad of kleenex and stuff it into the end of the tube with the
fuse sticking out of it. Put a small piece of tape onto the tube to hold
the kleenex in, but keep the tape about 1/2 a centimeter away from the
fuse. Also, make sure there are no gaps more than 1/2 centimeter wide
anywhere in the tube. Now light the fuse and run like hell!

    These are fun to light at parties that are going kinda
bad! Put one down the sink (no water!) and light it up! (make sure that
you are in some geeks house that no one likes) What a rush!

    Another phukin fun thing to do is fill the tube with bb's and gun powder
or even small nails! Talk about destruction!  Tie it on to you're douche bag
teacher's chair and let it fly!


4.637    The Bulb Bomb (Really Cool!)

Author: Prof.Flay Sepulcrast of SRI and Hook (UN)


If your into HUGE explosions on the MEGA cheap then this is for you.

    Packet of cream/nitrous or CO2 bulbs
    Box of matches
5    packs of Sparklers


1)    Empty the box of matches.
2)    Grind up 4 packets of sparklers.
3)    Put bulb in match box and fill with sparkler powder.
4)    Use two sparklers as wicks.


                 -------------light sparklers here and Run
                \|/   \|/

         | bulb|
         |  |  |-- Sparklers
         |  |  |
        +---^---+
        |    |
        |    |-- Matchbox with bulb and powder
        |    |
                |       |
                |       |
                +-------+


    You will have about 40 seconds to get the phuc out of there as the
bulb with shoot out at GREAT velocity in a random direction (although
usually upwards).

    As the sparklers burn down you will see a brilliant flare up as the
sparkler powder catches fire. The bulb will explode with a shotgun like
sound that will wake even the deepest sleeper.

    CO2 bulbs explode alot sooner that nitros but the nitros is at least
twice as loud.

    We conducted certain experiments with the bombs with the following
results:

    Will create a large hole in anything plastic.
    You could give your neighbours letterbox a flip-top-head.
    Do wonders to a cars windscreen.


    On the whole an easy to make cost efficent NOISY bomb.

BTW all of the ingredients can be purchased at your local supermarket!


4.638    Acetylene Balloon Bomb

Authors: Gin Fizz/2600 Club!/TPM and Ninja NYC/TPM
From: ==Phrack Inc.== Volume One, Issue One, Phile 7 of 8   11/01/85!
Written exclusively for The Phrack Inc. 2600 Club Newsletter,
and stolen exclusively for the Book of Terror!

    Imagine this. A great, inflated, green garbage bag slowly wafting
down from a tall building. It gains some speed as it nears the ground.
People look up and say, "What the....?"  The garbage bag hits! *BOOM!!!* It
explodes in a thundering fireball of green bits of plastic and flame!

    "What is this?" you may ask. Well, this is the great "Acetylene
Balloon Bomb." And here is how to make it.

Ingredients:

1)    For a small bomb: a plastic bag. Not too big.
    For something big(ger): a green, plastic garbage bag.

2)    Some "Fun-Snaps". A dozen should be more than enough.

3)    Some garbage bag twisties. String would also do.

4)    A few rocks. Not too heavy, but depends on size of bomb and desired
    velocity of balloon/bomb.

5)    PRIME INGREDIENT: Acetylene. This is what is used in acetylene torches.
    More on this substance later.

6)    One or more eager Anarchists.

Notes:

    Acetylene is a fairly dangerous substance. It is unstable upon contact
with oxygen (air). For this reason, and for your safety, I recommend you
keep all of the acetylene AWAY from any source of oxygen. This means don't
let it get in touch with air.

Construction:

1)    Fill up a bathtub with cold water. Make it VERY full.
2)    Now get put you garbage bag in the water and fill it with water. Make
    sure ALL air/oxygen is out of the bag before proceeding.
3)    Now take your acetylene source (I used it straight from the torch, and
    I recommend this way also.), and fill the bag up with acetylene.
4)    Now, being careful with the acetylene, take the bag out of the tub and
    tie the opening shut with the twisty or string. Let the balloon dry
    off now. (Put it in a safe place.)
5)    Okay. Now that it is dry and filled with acetlene, open it up and drop
    a few rocks in there. Also add some Fun-Snaps. The rocks will carry
    the balloon down, and the Fun-Snaps will spark upon impact, thus
    setting off the highly inflammable acetylene. *BABOOM!*
6)    Now put the twisty or string back on VERY tightly. You now have a
    delicate but powerful balloon bomb.

To use:

    Just drop off of a cliff, airplane, building, or whatever. It will
hit the ground a explode in a fireball. Be careful you are not near the
explosion site. And be careful you are not directly above the blast or the
fireball may rise and give you a few nasty burns.

Have fun!
But be careful...

This has been a 2600 Club production.


4.639    Bolt Bomb

Author: The Leftist
From: Phrack Inc. Volume One, Issue Five, Phile #6 of 12S

A new Anarchy toy! <otherwise known as "Know Your Hardware">

    This new "bomb" isn't really all that destructive, although I would
hate to be nailed in the head by a flying piece of it.  Use it to scare
dogs, and to just raise hell.

1    nut, fairly large in size
2    bolts, both the same size, which will both be the correct size to fit
    in the nut.
    You will also need a box of strike-anywhere wooden kitchen matches.

    Ok, you got all your stuff?  Let's begin.  Take one of the bolts and
the nut and screw it about 1/4 the way onto the nut.  It should look like this
<sort of>
                        ___                       |---|
                        |  |______________________|   |
                        |   _|_|___|__|__|__|_|___|   |
                        |__|                      |---|
                                  bolt ^               ^
                                       |           nut |


    Ok, take the matches, and there should be a 2 colored tip on the
end. Well, cut the top layer off (this should be done with a razor blade)
carefully, as to not set the matches off. Ok. Got that? Good, now, take
about, oh, four or five heads, or if you're feeling kind of dangerous, and
can fit them, try six. Put the heads <white part> into the space that is
between the other side of the bolt and the nut. Now, carefully, take the
other bolt and screw it down kind of tight onto the other side. You now
should have the 2 bolts connected by the nut, and the matches in between
this whole hardware contraption.

Now what??!?

    Take this thing, and throw it at something solid, and hard, like
the street, for instance, and be sure you throw it kinda hard, and kinda
far.  These can be a lot of fun, and only take a second to build.


4.640     Shotgun Shell Bombs

Typed by: Man-Tooth
From: The Poor Man's James Bond by Kurt Saxon
As Printed in: ==Phrack Inc.==   Volume One, Issue Three, Phile 3 of 10



    These little goodies are affectionately known as "nut busters."
They are simply shotgun shells enclosed in cardboard rolls with cardboard
fins put on.  On the primer end of the shell is glued a small cork with a
hole drilled through it.  A roofing nail fits in the hole snugly enough to
stay in, but loose enough to plunge into the primer upon impact.

    Since the shell is not confined in the chamber of the gun, it will
naturally not cause the same amount of damage.  But if it goes off between a
fellow's legs he can look forward to becoming a soprano.

    These bombs are thrown singly or by the handful into the air over
milling crowds.  The weight of the shell and stabilization by the fins
causes the nut buster to head straight downward.

    It has tremendous effect as its presence is usually a suprise.  The
threat of more coming is guaranteed to route any mob.

    Not only does it go off on the pavement but it will also explode on
contact with a person's head or shoulder.  At night it is impossible to trace
its point of origin.

                 -----
                 !    \
              /> !     \                /- Cork
          Fins   !     !               v
                 --------------------!\
           ! \   !         !-----!   ! \ !
           !  \> !------   !     !   !---!  <-- Roofing nail
           !     !         !-----!   ! / !
           \     --------------------!/
            \    !     !       ^
             \-> !     / ^      \
                 !    /  !       \
                 -----   !       Shell
                         !
                         !
                Close fitting 3-1/2 inch Aluminum Tubing Glued on Shell.

                      SHOTGUN SHELL BOMB


    A clever use for a plain shotgun shell is as a muffler bomb.  The
shell is simply shoved up a car's exhaust pipe with a length of stiff wire
until it drops into the muffler.  After a few minutes on the road the shell
explodes, totalling out the muffler and treating the driver to a sick kind
of panic.


4.641     Flour Rigs

Author: Dial Tone

There are two types of flour bombs:

    a) stupid
    b) flammable

    The stupid kind is to take a paper towel, put flour in it, roll it
up, tie it with a rubber band, and chuck it at somebody. Beat away...

    The flammable type requires an air pump (compressor, tire pump), or a
stupid friend that will agree to blow down a long tube into a box with flour in
it. Anyhow, the box has a hole on each end of it, and one hole has the tube
with some way for air to come in. In the box in front of the other hole (but
not sitting in the flour) you need some flame source. It can be a candle,
burning paper, brazening torch, flesh, whatever, just something that's gonna
burn for a while.

    Now, whenever some poser fag walks by, or you find one, you
activate your air....there goes the flour. "Big shit," you say, "so
there's flour around." Ah yes, but flour is flammable.  So when it passes
through the flame, it makes pretty orange and red lights. And, you can
make this entirely out of things in the kitchen. Funfunfun...


4.642     Chemical-Delay Time-Bomb

    Obtain a short section of steel pipe and a cap for each end. Place
inside the steel pipe a stick of dynamite, and drill a quarter-inch hole at
on end of one cap. Into this hole, place a small measure of potassium
chlorate and gunpowder. Prepare a small glass vial, filled with a
concentrated sulfuric acid solution and stop up the end with a paper or
cork stopper. To arm the bomb, place the vial of acid upside down in the
hole at the top of the pipe. When the acid has eaten its way through the
stopper, it will come in contact with the potassium chlorate and gunpowder.
The mixture of these chemicals will cause a minor explosion, but it will be
large enough to produce the heat necessary to detonate the dynamite. The
detonation time is usually between three and six hours. If a solution of
sulfuric acid and glycerin is used, rather than pure sulfuric acid, the
time delay will be up to five or six days. And now, perhaps one of the
oldest forms of bombs, one of the most unreliable, deadly, and treacherous.


4.643    Match Head Bomb
Courtesy of: The Jolly Roger

    Simple safety match heads in a pipe, capped at both ends, make a
devestating bomb. It is set off with a regular fuse. A plastic Baggie is
put into the pipe before the heads go in to prevent detonation by contact
with the metal. Cutting enough match heads to fill the pipe can be tedious
work for one but an evening's fun for the family if you can drag them away
from the TV.


4.644    Firebombs

Courtesy of: The Jolly Roger

    Most fire bombs are simply gasoline filled bottles with a fuel
soaked rag in the mouth (the bottle's mouth, not yours). The original
Molotov cocktail, and still about the best, was a mixture of one part
gasoline and one part motor oil. The oil helps it to cling to what it
splatters on. Some use one part roofing tar and one part gasoline. Fire
bombs have been found which were made by pouring melted wax into gasoline.


4.645    Letter Box Bombs (aka Standard Chlorine Bomb)

Courtesy of: The Jolly Roger

    Two litre bottle of chlorine (must contain sodium hypochlorate)
    Small amount of sugar
    Small amount of water

    Mix all three of these in equal amounts to fill about 1/10 of the
bottle. Screw on the lid and place in a mailbox. It's hard to believe that
such a small explosion will literally rip the mailbox in half and send it
20 feet into the air! Be careful doing this, though, because if you are
caught, it is not up to the person whose mailbox you blew up to press
charges. It is up to the city.

[Ed - Another method is to use just pool chlorine and brake fluid. This
recipe will yield a much bigger explosion, depending on the type of
container you use. ]

4.646    Tennis Ball Bombs

Courtesy of: The Jolly Roger

    strike anywhere matches
    tennis ball
    nice sharp knife
    duct tape [Ed - Just rip it off your hampster]

    Break a ton of matchheads off. Then cut a SMALL hole in the tennis
ball. Stuff all of the matchheads into the ball, until you can't fit any
more in. Then tape over it with duct tape. Make sure it is real nice and
tight! Then, when you see a geek walking down the street, give it a good
throw. He will have a blast!!

4.647    Paint Bombs

Courtesy of: The Jolly Roger

    To make a paint bomb you simply need a metal paint can with a
refastenable lid, a nice bright color paint (green, pink, purple,
or some gross color is perfect!), and a quantity of dry ice. Place
the paint inethe can and then drop the dry ice in. Quicky place
the top on and then run like hell! With some testing you can time
this to a science. It depends one the ratio of dry ice to paint to
the size of the can to how full it is. If you are really pissed
off at someone, you could place it on their doorstep, knock on the
door, and then run!! Paint will fly all over the place HAHA !!


4.648     CO2 bomb

Courtesy of: The Jolly Roger

    You will have to use up the cartridge firsthby either shooting it
or whatever. With a nail, force a hole bigger so as to allow the powder and
wick to fit in easily. Fill the cartridge with black powder and pack it in
there real good by tapping the bottom of the cartridge on a hard surface
(I said TAP not SLAM!). Insert a fuse. I recommend a good water-proof
cannon fuse, or an m-80 type fuse, but firecracker fuses work, if you can
run like a black man runs from the cops after raping a white girl.) Now,
light it and run like hell! It does wonders for a row of mailboxes (like
the ones in apartment complexes), a car (place under the gas tank), a
picture window (place on window sill), a phone booth (place right under the
phone), or any other devious place. This thing throws shrapnel, and can
make quit a mess!!


4.649     Solidox Bombs

Courtesy of: The Jolly Roger

    Most people are not aware that a volatile, extremely explosive
chemical cansbe bought over the counter Solidox.

    Solidox comes in an aluminum can containing 6 grey sticks, and cans
be bought at Kmart, and various hardware supply shops for arounds $7.00.e
Solidox is used in welding applications as ansoxidizing agent for the hot
flame needed to melt metal. The most active ingredient in Solidox is
potassium chlorate, a filler used in many military applications in the WWII
era.

    Since Solidox is literally what the name says: SOLID OXygen, you
must have an energy source for an explosion. The most common and readily
available energy sources is common household sugar, or sucrose. In theory,
glucose would be the purest energy source, but it is hard to find a solid
supply of glucose.

Making the mixture:

[1]    Open the can of Solidox, and remove all 6 sticks. One by one, grind
up each of the sticks (preferably with a mortar and pestle) into the finest
powder possible.

[2]    The ratio for mixing the sugar with the Solidox is 1:1, so weigh
the Solidox powder, and grind up the equivalent amount of sugar.

[3]    Mix equivalent amounts of Solidox powder, and sugar in a 1:1 ratio.

    It is just that simple! You now have an extremely powerful
substance that can be used in a variety of applications. A word of caution:
be EXTREMELY careful in the entire process. Avoid friction, heat, and
flame. A few years back, a teenager I knew blew 4 fingers off while trying
to make a pipe bomb with Solidox. You have been warned!


4.650     Radio Bomb

Author: Cracker Jack

    A Walkman or other radio
    Plastic explosives or gunpowder.
    A plastic bag (small)
    Brains (very important)

    Take the Walkman or radio and turn it so the back side is facing
you. Now get a screwdriver and open the back of the radio (unplug it
first!) You are now looking at the batteries and insides of the radio. Find
the two wires that lead away from the on/off switch. One should go to the
battery or power transformer. Leave that one there, but clip off the other
one at the end away from the switch. Get another piece of wire (from
somewhere else in the radio if you want), strip the ends, and connect one
end to the side of the battery or plug opposite the one that leads to the
switch. You should now have two wires with one end unconnected. Make sure
the switch is off, strip these ends, and stick them into the explosives.
Depending on what explosive you are using, you might need a solar igniter,
and if it's a powder you have to put it in a plastic bag.

Note: be absolutely sure the explosives can't short across the power source
until the switch is turned on!!! (Or you might be blown up...)


4.651      Poison Gas Bomb

Author: Jack the Ripper


Here is another handy device for you terrorist peoples out there...

2 cups    Hydrochloric Acid (or 4 cups myuratic pool acid)
1 cup    Pool Chlorine, (or one large chlorine tablet

    Two glass bottles with caps, one of which is smaller, and can fit
inside the other.

Construction:
-------------

    Fill the smaller bottle with acid. Screw on the cap. Make sure no
acid is leaking out or if any is remaining around the cap or such, wipe it
off.

    Place the smaller bottle into the larger bottle and fill the
chlorine in around it, then place the cap on that bottle.

Use:
----
    Throw this handy container into a crowd, or at any other target.
Usually it wont kill people (unless you hit the person with the heavy
bottle in the head!) It is VERY successful in blinding people (at least
temporarily.)

The more of each substance used, the larger the cloud.



4.652     The Destructor

1 CO2 Cartridge -
    Used in BB guns - come in a pack of five - Target sells them for
    $1.50 a pack.

[Ed- These are the same bulbs that are used for whipped cream/soda dispensers]

2 Size D Estes model rocket engines -
    found in most hobby stores where model rockets are sold. (Any size
    will work but D's have the most powder)

2 Solar igniters (usually come with the engines) used to ignite the bomb
1 bottle of fast drying model glue
1 scissors
1 funnel
1 roll of masking tape
1 hammer
1 container (jar, cup, glass)
1 20 foot wire (+ and -)
1 6 volt (or 12 volt) lantern battery


        The CO2 cartridge is the body of the bomb and when it explodes will
fragment.. so stand back..  Metal flies!!

        If you have a CO2 BB gun then you will have many empty cartridges.
For those of you who have never bought CO2 cartridges you will have to find
some other way of emptying them. I have done this on accident before,
simply insert a nail in the top of the cartridge and watch the CO2 gas come
out!! Very cold if you let it touch you. I do not suggest doing it this
way, so if possible, ask a friend who has a CO2 BB gun for their empty CO2
cartridges.


Make the hole bigger:

        Once you have an empty cartridge you have to make the hole bigger,
otherwise it is very difficult to get the explosive compounds into the
cartridge. Take a nail and pound the hole bigger. The size of the hole is
very important. If it is too big the cartridge will act as a rocket instead
of a bomb.


Prepare the explosive ingredients:

        Unroll the model rocket engines with a pocket knife, until you have
the black chunk of boosting compound. Throw away the unrolling paper. You
may remove the block of clay since this is not explosive. Powder the chunk
with the hammer until you have fine powder. To make the fine powder, lay
down some wax paper on the floor. Find a screen mesh, and filter the
powder, leaving the big pieces on top and the fine powder on the wax paper.
Then pour the powder on the wax paper into a container. After you have the
two size D engines powdered and in the container you are ready to put the
powder into the CO2 cartridge.


Get the ingredients in the cartridge:

        Make a funnel out of paper (a floppy disk jacket works well, with
the end clipped off) and tape it around the end of the cartridge. Slowly
pour the powder from the container into the funnel. You may have to use a
toothpick to help the powder through the funnel and into the cartridge. If
your powder is not fine enough it might jam in the hole and you will have
to remove the funnel and clear the passage. Shake the cartridge every so
often until you can't hear the powder in there. The cartridge is now full
of explosive powder.


Prepare the igniter:

        Clip the paper protector of the igniter with a scissors and bend the
wires so they are relatively straight. (Be careful not to break the igniter
when bending the wires) Coat the igniter with glue except for the ends, and
let it dry for a few minutes. Then insert the igniter into the cartridge
leaving the ends exposed. The tip of the igniter must touch the powder for
the powder to ignite. This should be no problem if you have enough powder
in the cartridge. Put glue around the igniter and the tip of the cartridge
and let dry.


Connecting the bomb:

        Then bend the end wires of the igniter and connect to your 20 foot
wire. Put tape around the end wires and cartridge. The Destructor is now
ready to detonate.


Detonating the bomb:

        When you have found a place to detonate The Destructor, stretch the
wire the full 20 feet and then touch both wires to the two negative and
positive connectors. This will send a 6 volt charge through the wire and to
the igniter. The igniter will ignite the explosive compounds in the
cartridge and in a matter of seconds........  BOOM!!!!!!!!!!!!!!



4.7      PIPE BOMBS

4.71     Standard Pipe Bomb

    Buy a section of metal water pipe 1/2 by 6 inches long, threaded on
both ends. Buy two metal caps to fit. These are standard items in hardware
stores. Drill a 1/16th hole in the center of the pipe. This is easy with a
good drill bit. Hanson is a good brand to use. Screw a metal cap tightly on
one end.

    Cracker Jack comments to oil the ends to avoid sparking when screwing
the caps on. Fill the pipe to within 1/2 inch of the top with black powder.
Do not pack the powder. Don't even tap the bottom of the pipe to make it
settle. You want the powder loose. For maximum explosive effect, you need dry,
fine powder sitting loose in a very rigid container. Wipe off any powder that
has gotten onto the top or threads of the pipe. Gently screw on the second cap.
Hand tighten only. Place a small piece of tape over the hole and go to your
test site. Remove the tape and insert a two inch piece of black match fuse or
a firecracker fuse into the hole. Place the bomb behind a large rock or tree.
Using thread or string, lightly tie a 2 inch piece of sulfured wick to the end
of the fuse. Avoid letting the wick touch any objects. This might cause it to
go out. Light the wick and head for cover in a direction that keeps the rock
or tree between you and the bomb at all times. Get behind cover at least 50
yards away. You may not expect such a large explosion from such a small object.
Be extra cautious until You have done this a time or two and it gets real what
you are dealing with. The pipe will be blown to pieces which will fly through
the air like bullets. An accident could seriously wound or kill you. This is
not a big firecracker. It is more like a hand grenade.

    The size of the bomb can be increased by using a larger pipe and caps.
To make a big noise without blowing up your pipe, cap one end only. Drill a
1/16 hole at the top of the threads at the capped end. Put in about 3 to 4
rounded teaspoonsful of powder. Pack about 2 inches of wadding on top of the
powder. Toilet paper or kleenex is good for this. Pack it tight. Open up a
safety pin and stick it into the hole. Work it around to loosen up the powder
so a fuse can be inserted. When this goes off, the recoil will be tremendous.
You will loose your pipe unless you brace it securely against something.
The pipe can be reloaded and used again. A fun trick is to mount the pipe
pointing upward. Drop a tin can over the open end and light the fuse. The can
will be blown high into the air. Campbell's soup cans are great for this.


4.72     Vinegar/Baking Soda Pipe Bomb

Author:   THE GRAY MOUSER
               ^___^
                * *
                 ^
              --\ /--
                 "

    steel pipe (preferably threaded both ends)
    vinegar
    baking soda
    small glass jar (e.g. a baby food jar)
    shrapnel
    access to a welder is recommended

    Go to your local hardware store and tell the guy that is helping you
that you want a piece of steel pipe one foot long, and also that you want the
ends threaded to put caps on the end.

    Now, get ahold of a babyfood jar. Make sure that the jar will fit down
the pipe easily. Fill the jar with vinegar. Make sure the top is screwed on
really tight. **IF IT IS LOOSE YOU WILL BLOW YOUR HAND OFF**

    Cap one end of your pipe with one of the caps that you should have
picked up with the pipe. If you know of someone with a welder, have him weld a
bead around the threads after you have it capped.

    Put some small sharp rocks or shrapnel down the end of the pipe and
then slide the jar down inside so the glass end is against the little rocks.
Now empty a medium box of baking soda into the pipe. Cap the other end of the
pipe and if you can weld it, then go for it. **BE FUCKING CAREFUL**
You might break the jar inside and you won't know that you broke it until you
see your hand fly off!!!

    Now, when you want to blow something up, just smack the end of the
pipe  that sends the jar inside down against the small rocks. Oh yeah, smack
it against some concrete. This breaks the jar and the vinegar and baking soda
mix together and builds up pressure. When it gets to the critical point, BOOM!

Note:

    After you hit the pipe against the ground, get the hell rid of it!!!
Toss it into someone's car or somewhere. Sometimes it takes five minutes for
it to go off, sometimes two. but it will go off! Trust me!

    I did this when i was living in arizona. My Friend that taught me this
was a demolitions expert for the navy.

    The first time i did it. We tossed the pipe into an old house and it
blew all four walls out!! The second time we did it, we tossed it into an old
car, and it phucking blew all four doors off and the roof three feet into the
air!

    When we blew up the house, we waited five minutes and i thought that
it wouldn't go off. So, I crawled out of the ditch that we were in. WHAMMY!!
Just then it went off! It threw me back five feet back into the ditch!

4.73     Acid/Parafin Pipe Bomb

    pipe crimp
    parafin (lots)
    metal wafer


    Take a pipe crimp (closed at one end) and pack it 3/4 full of parafin.
(or any other semi-solid with about the same basic chemical structure). Poke a
number of holes through the length of the parafin. On top of this put a very
thin steel (or other metal of that sort) wafer, make double damn sure** that it
fits tightly all the way around.  On top of this, put some high concentration
HCl (or similar acid). Close the top now, stand it on end (parafin end down),
and get the fuck away. You should have about 2-5 minutes depending on the
thickness of the wafer.  Watch out for shrapnel.

4.74     Soft Drink Can Bomb

From : The Poor Man's James Bond by Kurt Saxon

    This is an anti-personnel bomb meant for milling crowds. The bottom
of a soft drink can is half cut out and bent back. A giant firecracker or
other explosive is put in and surrounded with nuts and bolts or rocks.
The fuse is then armed with a chemical delay in a plastic drinking straw.

    After first making sure there are no children nearby, the acid or
glycerine is put into the straw and the can is set down by a tree or wall
where it will not be knocked over. The delay should give you three to five
minutes. It will then have a shattering effect on passersby.

    It is hardly likely that anyone would pick up and drink from someone
else's soft drink can. But if such a crude person should try to drink from
your bomb he would break a nasty habit fast!


           !!
           !!
           !! <-CHEMICAL INGITER
       ---------
       !  !1!  !
       ! ===== !
       !*!   !"!
       ! !   ! !
       ! !   ! !<- BIG FIRECRACKER
       ! !   !%!
       ! ====  !
       !       !
       !   #   !
       ! ---   !
       !  !    ! <- NUTS & BOLTS
       !  /    !
       !       !
       ---------

4.75     Real Pipe Bombs

Authors:  THE DARK LORDS OF CHAOS
      Prowler, Apprentice, Pro Hack, Zeus, Tarkmeth, Blackstone & Lazer

    8" section of PVC conduit 1" in diameter
2    pipe caps (that will fit the PVC)
    some sort of propellant
    some green waterproof fuse
    a tube of Forma-Gasket, or some sort of sealant
    a hot glue gun
    a drill with a small bit

    Put one of the caps on the PVC, seal it, and let it dry. Fill the
pipe halfway full with your propellant.  Hold one end of the fuse while
filling the pipe the rest of the way with the propellant. The pipe should
now be full of the propellant up to 1/3" from the top of the PVC. Fill it
the rest of the way with hot glue, and let it cool. Drill a small hole in the
remaining pipe cap, and put it on the PVC. Make sure you have run the fuse
through the small hole! Now, seal the cap on the pipe, and seal the small
hole around the fuse hole.

    You now have a working pipe bomb which is roughly the equivalent
of 1 stick of tnt. How you use it is up to you.

Fuck 'em if they can't take a toke!

4.76     Canister Pipe Bombs

    NO2 or CO2 canister

    CO2 canisters are among the simplest and safest forms of pipe bombs.
They can be purchased in any sporting goods store, or more commonly in the
canister for for whipped cream machines (NO2) or for making soft drinks (CO2)
for about $.50 each.  Simply release the CO2 inside, and fill them with
gunpowder.  If you can't obtain gunpowder, use powdered zinc and sulfur, or
some other substitute.  (60% Zinc, 40% Sulfur, by volume)

    Fill your CO2 with whatever explosive you are using. Plug the end with
a fuse (1/16" diameter), light it, and run. There is usually only one piece of
shrapnel, about the size of your fist.  make sure the outer surface of your
bomb is free of gunpowder. Otherwise, it could detonate several seconds early.

4.77     Generic Pipe Bomb

Author: Garbled USer

        This simple bomb can be made many many wayz!!

1)    Fill with assorted explosive powders (match heads, Rocket Engines,
rust, aluminum powder, or whatever else you have laying around that looks
deadly!)

2)    Same as method 1. Omit the part about drilling the hole for the fuse.
simply fill a MR. COFFEE filter with DAMP Nitrogen Triiodide (discused later)
and put in one (or both) end(s) of the pipe. Unveil, throw, Enjoy!

3)    The ol' Gunpowder and wick works too.. but can be donw with shotgun
shells too!!


4.78     How to make a Miniature Pipe Bomb

Author: Lazarus Long
From: Freedom Issue 1, December 24, 1992 File 6/7


    This device is not a weapon of terrorism like a genuine pipe bomb.
It is essentially just a firecracker, a very loud firecracker, that can
mangle a finger or two if you aren't careful. First, I will advise you to go
out and buy a pound of Pyrodex. This is a smokeless powder sold at most
gun/hunting supply stores for roughly $15 (Canadian) per pound.  It is an
exceptionally versatile explosive as it is less sensitive to friction and
impact, and it also does not absorb moisture as readily, as other similar
compounds like black powder.  Pyrodex is also exceptionally easy to make into
simple fuses.  A pound will last a long time depending on how you use it.

    A Papermate Flexgrip pen
    Pyrodex
    A couple cotton balls
    A fuse


               Part 1 - Making Fuses


    For those of you that don't know how to make fuses out of pyrodex I
will explain this first.  Mix some pyrodex into a small amount of water until
you have a thin paste, it shouldn't be too thick or too watery.  Take a cotton
ball and stretch it into a long string.  Coat this string with the paste and
loosely pull it through your fingers to scrape off excess paste (do not
flatten the fuse).  Place on a cookie pan (use wax paper, or place them on
the back of the pan), aluminum foil, or other similar surface.  Keep making
these until you run out of paste, there is no need to let it go to waste.
Bake in your oven at 250 degrees until the fuse is stiff.  When ready it will
be both stiff and dry, and have a steel grey appearance.  Try not to bend this
fuse as areas that incur bends will sometimes fail.


    This is the most expedient method I have found and, except for the
Pyrodex, requires items frequently already in the home.  Using the same
principles you can also use cotton string, or even toilet paper (toilet paper
is not recommended).  My last bit of advice: never bake a large amount of
fuses at once.  Although powders like Pyrodex don't explode unless confined,
they do burn.  I have never had any problems with the above method, but
caution should always be used.


                 Part ][ - The Bomb


    Now to the mini pipe bomb itself.  The Papermate Flexgrip pen is the
perfect container for such an explosive.  They are, unfortunately, fairly
expensive as pens go, so except for one or two experimental bombs you are
going to want to use them first (fortunately the Flexgrip is also one of the
best pens out there). The reason it is such a good container is that, like a
pipe bomb, both ends are screw on, one of which has a hole the perfect size
for a fuse.  The rest of the container has no holes in it, unlike the cheap
Bic pens.

    First take out the ink cartridge, you don't need it anymore. Second,
unscrew the metal end out of which the writing part formerly jutted.  Insert
the fuse through the hole starting from the inside and pulling out, remember
to avoid bending the fuse too much.  Leave enough fuse on the inside to just
barely reach above the threads on the metal cone.  You should then screw this
metal end back onto the pen.  Now fill the pen with Pyrodex nearly to the top.
Tap the pen with your finger to eliminate air pockets.  Fill again if
necessary.  Finally put some cotton in the top of the pen, and the hollow
part of the screw on top.  Screw the top back into place.  You now have a
miniature pipe bomb.  When firing this off you don't want to be nearby, it
produces a fair amount of shrapnel, and a very loud bang.  Use a long fuse.

    When making this using Pyrodex is advised.  If you choose to use black
powder or match heads (match heads are dumb!) be VERY careful when screwing on
the top piece that you don't have any powder in the threads.  You should be
wary of this even when using Pyrodex but it isn't nearly as dangerous.  I've
made over two dozen of these and had no problems whatsoever, except for the
occasional failed fuse.  If the fuse fails don't approach the bomb for at
least five to ten minutes.  When you recover it you will have to empty the
Pyrodex and start over with a new fuse.

    This mini pipe bomb with the cap on looks just like a pen without
alterations and could be rigged into a booby trap if necessary (ie. placing
the pen cap back on in a way that would light a very short fuse when removed).
Pen booby traps such as these, although not made in the same fashion, were
used as antipersonal devices by Germans against the British.  The idea behind
such a booby trap is not usually to kill, but to maim, thus taking the enemy
personnel out of action and forcing the enemy to expend resources on medical
care.  To be used for recreational purposes though the fuse should be too
long to place the cap on properly and therefore doesn't look nearly as
innocent.



4.79     How to make a powerful pipe bomb


    This pipe bomb is extremely powerful and should be used with
extreme caution. This bomb is very nice and EXTREMELY powerful, though. It
packs quite a punch, especially nestled on someone's engine block.

    A PVC pipe. The longer, the more powerful. I recommend about 5 inches.

    Two ends, preferably brass.
    (These are the things that screw on to the end of the pipe)

    Black powder - gun powder.
    A drill.
    Cannon Fuse, 6+ inches long.
    Iron bits and pieces. (Optional)


    Use the drill to make a hole in the middle of the PVC pipe, a hole
as big as the width of the fuse. Put one end on one end of the pipe,
tighten it nicely and then pour as much black powder in there as will fit.
Now securely fasten the other end on the other side and insert the fuse.
Place, light, and run!

Options:

- Bury the bomb about six inches underground and light.  I once did this and it
  sent debris 20 feet in every direction.

- Place on the engine block of car to destroy it.
- Try electric detonation with an electric match.
- Put iron bits in the black powder to make it lethal.

Remember:

    If this is used correctly it can be as powerful as a hand grenade.
Also, light this in the correct place or else it could make your life
miserable.



4.8     GRENADES


Author: The FBI and GaRbLeD UseR

    The SECRET of THE GARAGE GEAR GRENADES !!!!!!!
        and other assorted easy-to-do-detonations!

This article is based on the need for weaponry.. FAST, and cheap.

Example 1:

    Your house is surrounded by urban terrorists, they want your girlfriend
to come out, naked, with her hands up.  What do you do??

Example 2:

    Your nextdoor neighbor has noticed a few STRANGE smoke clouds coming
from your home, and has decided to call the Feds. Too bad you have 30 kilos of
coke stashed under your bed. What to do???!

Example 3:

    Your best friend has been taken hostage by the KGB, and is being held
in a warehouse 1000 ft. away. He has 30 minutes to live.. No car, No ready made
weapons.  WHAT WILL YOU DO?!?!?


Well.. aside from the corny examples, you pull out this article.

    How will this ASCII save your best friend from the KGB?  Easy, It
teaches  you a simple fact. That every household in the world contains enough
explosives to detonate a city block. No way.. uh uh.. you say.. Well, READ ON!!


4.81     Molotov Cocktails

     First used by Russians against German tanks, the Molotov cocktail is now
exclusively used by terrorists worldwide. They are extremely simple to make, and
can produce devastating results. By taking any highly flammable material, such
as gasoline, diesel fuel, kerosene, ethyl or methyl alcohol, lighter fluid,
turpentine, or any mixture of the above, and putting it into a large glass
bottle, anyone can make an effective firebomb. After putting the flammable
liquid in the bottle, simply put a piece of cloth that is soaked in the liquid
in the top of the bottle so that it fits tightly. Then, wrap some of the cloth
around the neck and tie it, but be sure to leave a few inches of lose cloth to
light. Light the exposed cloth, and throw the bottle. If the burning cloth
does not go out, and if the bottle breaks on impact, the contents of the bottle
will spatter over a large area near the site of impact, and burst into flame.
Flammable mixtures such as kerosene and motor oil should be mixed with a more
volatile and flammable liquid, such as gasoline, to insure ignition. A mixture
such as tar or grease and gasoline will stick to the surface that it strikes,
and burn hotter, and be more difficult to extinguish. A mixture such as this
must be shaken well before it is lit and thrown


4.811     Basic Molotov Cocktail

        These do not 'explode' per say, they just spread around the fuel
and, if your lucky the oil/gas mix combusts enough to give you a little
"boom". A two to one ratio of gas to oil works nicely. Napalm can also be
used, or jelly gas is fine.

Foreword from the Poor Man's James Bond:

    Most fire bombs are simply gasoline filled bottles with a fuel
soaked rag in the mouth (the bottle's mouth, not yours). The original
Molotov cocktail, and still about the best, was a mixture of one part
gasoline and one part motor oil. The oil helps it to cling to what it
splatters on.

    Some use one part roofing tar and one part gasoline. Fire bombs
have been found which were made by pouring melted wax into gasoline.

Fuse ignition fire bomb

    A four strand homemade fuse is used for this. It burns like fury.
It is held down and concealed by a strip of bent tin cut from a can. The
exposed end of the fuse is dipped into the flare igniter. To use this one,
you light the fuse and hold the fire bomb until the fuse has burned out of
sight under the tin. Then throw it and when it breaks, the burning fuse
will ignite the contents.

Author: Garbled User

    60% oil
    40% gasoline
    wine bottle (or thereabouts)
    cork

    Fill a wine bottle with the mixture, soak a rag in the mixture. Put the
rag in the bottle, so most of it sticks out. Cork the bottle. Light the rag.
Throw at intended target. The bottle will break, releasing the oil/gas mixture.
The burning rag will ignite this, and the whole area will be covered in fire!

    Now to have fun, replace oil with styrofoam!! NOW watch the fun when
it explodes!!

Of course you could always use Blast Oil instead of gasoline.. :)

Note:
    According to Dr. Petonski, the addition of detergent to the mix
causes the Molotov to stick better to surfaces, such as human flesh,
cop cars ...


4.812     Incendiary Timed Delay Moltov Cocktail

From: Anarchy Today,  Article #8 Issue #1
Author: Jack The Ripper

    Please note that the detonating capsules used here will be refered to
most likely in a later issue, because they work excellently. Also this bomb
disperses flaming oil and gasoline quickly, so steer clear of it when it goes
off.

Name                                                    Source
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------

Potassium/Chlorate Sugar igniter                        Recipe this book!

Concentrated Sulfuric Acid                              Clear battery acid
                                                        boiled until white
                                                        fumes appear

Gelatin Capsules (sizes 0,00, and 000)                  Drug Store and
                                                        Veterinary Clinics

Lead Shot                                               Gun Stores or Shotgun
                                                        Shells

Narrow Neck Bottles (i.e. Wine bottles etc...)          Liquor Store or Garbage
Oil
Gasoline

1)    Empty out the contents of the gelatin capsules if any and separate
    them. Now fill the smaller half of the capsule 1/4 full of lead
    shot. Now fill the remaining space with the potassium
    chlorate/sugar igniter.

2)    Now pack it down, and place the larger end cap on the packed
    main capsule. Now set this aside for later use. Now repeat this
    process until a number of capsules have been produced.

3)    Store in a airtight container for future use.


-=-=-=-
-USES!-
-=-=-=-

1)    Now your ready to make the incendiary device.  Fill your wine bottle
    about 1/4 inch high with Sulfuric Acid, and then fill the remaining
    space 3/4 full of a gasoline/oil mixture in a 1:1 ratio or half gas
    and half oil (same thing).

2)    Now to detonate drop in three or four of the previously prepared
    capsules, and turn the bottle upside down. (The neck of the bottle
    downward)

3)    What this does is the capsules with the lead shot in them sink to the
    neck of the bottle where the heavier Sulfuric Acid is concentrated.
    Now in about 20 minutes the acid will eat through the capsules and a
    white hot flame will explode the bottle dispersing the gasoline and oil
    mixture.

4)    For a prolonged time delay place the capsule inside a larger capsule.


4.82     Chemical Fire Bottle

     The chemical fire bottle is really an advanced molotov cocktail.  Rather
than using the burning cloth to ignite the flammable liquid, which has at best
a fair chance of igniting the liquid, the chemical fire bottle utilizes the very
hot and violent reaction between sulfuric acid and potassium chlorate.  When the
container breaks, the sulfuric acid in the mixture of gasoline sprays onto the
paper soaked in potassium chlorate and sugar.  The paper, when struck by the
acid, instantly bursts into a white flame, igniting the gasoline.  The chance
of failure to ignite the gasoline is less than 2%, and can be reduced to 0%, if
there is enough potassium chlorate and sugar to spare.

     MATERIALS                         EQUIPMENT
     ─────────                         ─────────
     potassium chlorate               glass bottle
     (2 teaspoons)                    (12 oz.)
     sugar (2 teaspoons)              cap for bottle,
                                      with plastic inside
     concentrated                     cooking pan with raised
     sulfuric acid (4 oz.)            edges
     gasoline (8 oz.)                 paper towels
                                      glass or plastic cup
                                      and spoon

1) Test the cap of the bottle with a few drops of sulfuric acid to make sure
   that the acid will not eat away the bottle cap during storage.  If the
   acid eats through it in 24 hours, a new top must be found and tested, until
   a cap that the acid does not eat through is found.  A glass top is excellent.

2) Carefully pour 8 oz. of gasoline into the glass bottle.

3) Carefully pour 4 oz. of concentrated sulfuric acid into the glass bottle.
   Wipe up any spills of acid on the sides of the bottle, and screw the cap on
   the bottle.  Wash the bottle's outside with plenty of water.  Set it aside
   to dry.

4) Put about two teaspoons of potassium chlorate and about two teaspoons of
   sugar into the glass or plastic cup.  Add about 1/2 cup of boiling water,
   or enough to dissolve all of the potassium chlorate and sugar.

5) Place a sheet of paper towel in the cooking pan with raised edges.  Fold
   the paper towel in half, and pour the solution of dissolved potassium
   chlorate and sugar on it until it is thoroughly wet.  Allow the towel to
   dry.

6) When it is dry, put some glue on the outside of the glass bottle containing
   the gasoline and sulfuric acid mixture.  Wrap the paper towel around the
   bottle, making sure that it sticks to it in all places.  Store the bottle
   in a place where it will not be broken or tipped over.

7) When finished, the solution in the bottle should appear as two distinct
   liquids, a dark brownish-red solution on the bottom, and a clear solution
   on top.  The two solutions will not mix.  To use the chemical fire bottle,
   simply throw it at any hard surface.

8) NEVER OPEN THE BOTTLE, SINCE SOME SULFURIC ACID MIGHT BE ON THE CAP, WHICH
   COULD TRICKLE DOWN THE SIDE OF THE BOTTLE AND IGNITE THE POTASSIUM CHLORATE,
   CAUSING A FIRE AND/OR EXPLOSION.

9) To test the device, tear a small piece of the paper towel off the bottle,
   and put a few drops of sulfuric acid on it.  The paper towel should
   immediately burst into a white flame.

4.821     Chemical Fire Bottle, El Pirata's Recipe

Written for:  Toxic Oyster Guild  5.12.85

    Sulphuric Acid (Battery Acid)
    Gasoline
    Potassium Chlorate (Drug Store)
    Sugar
    Glass bottle w/stopper (roughly 1 quart size)
    Small bottle or jar w/lid
    Rag or absorbent paper (newspaper, paper towels, etc.)
    String or rubber bands


1)  Sulphuric Acid Must be Concentrated. If battery acid or other dilute acid
    is used, concentrate it by boiling until dense white fumes are given off.
    Container used should be of eenamelware or oven glass.

CAUTION:  Sulphuric acid will burn skin and destroy clothing.  If any is
      spilled, wash it away with a large quantity of water.  Fumes are also
      dangerous and should not be inhaled.

2)  Remove the acid from heat and allow to cool to room temerature.

3)  Pour gasoline into the large (1 quart) bottle until it is approximately
    2/3 full.

4)  Add concentrated sulphuric acid to gasoline slowly until the bottle is
    filled to within 1' to 2' from top.  Place the stopper on the bottle.

5)  Wash the outside of the bottle thoroughly with clear water.

CAUTION:  If this is not done, the fire bottle may be dangerous to handle
      during use.

6)  Wrap a clean cloth or several sheets of absorbent paper around the outside
    of the bottle.  Tie with string or fasten with rubber bands.

7)  Dissolve 1/2 cup (100 gm) of potassium chlorate and 1/2 cup (100 gm) of
    sugar in one cup (250 cc) of boiling water.

8)  Allow the solution to cool, pour into the small bottle and cap tightly.
    The cooled solution should be approx. 2/3 crystals and 1/3 liquid.  If
    there is more liquid than this, pour off excess before using.

CAUTION:  Store this bottle separately from the other bottle.

How To Use:

1)  Shake the small bottle to mix contents and pour onto the cloth or paper
    around the large bottle.  Bottle can be used wet or after solution has
    dried.  However, when dry, the sugar - Potassium chlorate mixture is very
    sensitive to spark or flame and should be handled accordingly.

2)  Throw or launch the bottle.  When the bottle breaks against a hard surface
    (target) the fuel will ignite.

Conclusion:

    This weapon proves to be very useful in torching Assholes and/or their
possessions.  Use your imagination.


4.83     Nail Grenade

     Effective fragmentation grenades can be made from a block of tnt or
other blasting explosive and nails.

    Block of TNT or other blasting explosive
    Nails
    Non-electric (military or improvised) blasting cap
    Fuse Cord
    Tape, string, wire, or glue


    If an explosive charge other than a standard TNT block is used, make
a hole in the center of the charge for inserting the blasting cap. TNT can
be drilled with relative safety. With plastic explosives, a hole can be
made by pressing a round stick into the center of the charge. The hole should
be deep enough that the blasting cap is totally within the explosive.

    Tape, tie, or glue one or two rows of closely packed nails to the
sides of the explosive block. Nails should completely cover the four
surfaces of the block.

Place blasting cap on one end of the fuse cord and crimp with pliers.

Note:
    To find out how long the fuse cord should be, check the time it
takes a known length to burn. If 12 inches (30 cm) burns for 30 seconds,
a 10 second delay will require a 4 inch (10 cm) fuse.

    Insert the blasting cap in the hole in the block of explosive. Tape or
tie fuse cord securly in place so that it will not fall out when the
grenade is thrown.

Alternate Use:
-------------

    An effective directional anti-personnel mine can be made by placing
nails on only one side of the explosive block. For thi case, and electric
blasting cap can be used.

4.84     Expedient Grenades

Author: The Cheshire Cat

    There are many possibilities in the field of grenade manufacture,
but for the most part, when you're dealing with grenades that must be
constructed of easily available materials, the quality and the safety of the
grenade is reduced dramatically.  Here I will deal with this problem, trying
to produce a reasonable type of grenade that is relatively safe, can be stored
and transported easily, but produces dramatic effects.  I strongly suggest that
if you find it possible, you are far better off getting a REAL grenade than
trying to produce one yourself, but you can be the judge.  As always, I want
to note that this is all for educational purposes only, and I do not recommend
anyone trying any of the following for real.

       The first thing you need is explosives.  If you can't get black powder,
or gun powder, or make your own plastic explosives (we know there sure are
enough text files floating around to explain how to make all of the above!)
than you're really in a for making a grenade of this type.  You'll also need a
coffee can, a smaller sized can (probably like an orange juice can, or V8), a
coat hanger, and a fuse or fuze.  As for explosives, mercury fulminate is
extremely good for this sort of thing.  Maybe I'll write a text file on its
preparation sometime.  But for now, you could probably get together a ton of
firecrackers and take out the black powder (if you'r desperate) or get a
couple quarter sticks from someone (or take a vacation in North Carolina).

    The explosive goes in the juice can.  Don't pack it together too
tight.  Loose black powder is better than compressed. This is the main
explosive.  Cut up the coat hanger into little pieces approximately 1/2" long
and fill up the coffee can until you can put the juice can in and the top of
the juice can is level with the top of the coffee can.  If you don't have the
time, and need to fill up the space faster, chuck in a couple small rocks or
pieces of glass, and stuff like that until you have the bottom of the can
filled.

    Now place the juice can in the coffee can, and center it.  Then fill
the space around the coffee can with coat hanger stuff until the juice can is
relatively stable.  Put a model rocket fuse in the explosive in the juice can.
Leave (at least) 3 1/2" to light from.  If necessary, secure the juice can or
the explosive with some masking tape, etc, as long as it doesn't interfere with
the action of the grenade.  Take the lid of the coffee can and cut a hole so
that the fuse is exposed.

    You now have a fragmentation grenade.  It might be a good idea to
practice with a football for a while before trying to destroy the neighbor's
garage with it.

4.85     Napalm Grenade

Author: Sir Knight off
              -=> <El Pirata'> <=-
            (c) 1985 TOG ENTERPRISES

    Napalm is in itself a very simple substance... it can be used for many
things... (i.e. getting back at your neighbor!!) Here's what'cha need:

    Gasoline
    Joy or Palmolive (I prefer Joy)
    Coke can with a sawed off top
    Ammonia Pellets
    drill
    wire
    nail

    First,make a mixture of 1/2 Joy(my favorite),and 1/2 Gasoline.
Take the coke can, and fill it half full with this wonderful mixture...
it should look like this:

      -^-^-^-^-^-^-^-
      !             !
      !             ! <-Coke Can
      !             !
      !=============!
      !=============!
      !=============! <-Mixture
      !=============!
      ---------------

    Now,take the drill(or some sharp object)and put a hole through the
ammonia pellet big enough for the nail.. Put the nail through the pellet
(which I might add can be picked up at any farm supply store)and wire that to
the top of the can so the nail can be slipped out easily, allowing the pellet
to drop.

Warning:

    Do NOT let that pellet fall into the mixture, as your wife will soon
become a widow! Wait until you are ready to set it off to let it drop. It
should look like this:

      (========<+>=========)
      ! ^^Nail  ^^Pellet   !
      !                    !
      !                    !
      !                    !
      !====================!
      !====================! <-Mixture
      !====================!
      !====================!
      ----------------------


4.86      Force Grenade

Author: GArbled User

    This little bastard will blow just about anyone 30-100 feet back!!
Can cause a car to nearly flip over.. and can cause almost nuclear damage to
a window!

    Simply Grab the vinegar, grab the ol' ARM and HAMMER baking soda.
Take a cheap plastic bottle(2 liter is good). Take some paper towels. Fill
them with alot of baking soda. Wrap them VERY though roughly (but small enof
to still fit thru the neck of the bottle). Fill the bottle about 60% up with
vinegar. Take the baking soda rolls you made (about 10) and drop them in.

    Then just close, and throw.. FAST!! The reaction causes a HUGE amount
of CO2 gas to be produced.. causing a BIG BOOM!

    You can ALSO use a glass bottle, which will create MANY nice, sharp
glass  shards! Which function nicely as an anti-personel device.


4.87     Death Grenade

Author: Garbled User

    This is the same as a force grenade, except the minor fact that it
releases a cloud of poison gas SO deadly it will kill just about anyone
nearby! (not to mention the sheer power of the bomb!) Just replace the
Arm-n-hammer with any ammonia containing liquid (ammonia Water works the best
(ammonium hydroxide)) Replace the vineger with a chlorine containing liquid,
like industrial strength chlorine bleach. Ever wonder why they allways tell
you not to mix the two?? Now you know.. they produce chlorine gas.

heh heh..

    This will produce QUITE a blast.. and a green cloud that will sweep a
city block.. so try not to be downwind of the bomb!! It will also take longer
to explode, so you have more time to throw the grenade.. BUT Don't be thinking
"Gee, I have all the time in the world.. I think I'll have a few cigs before I
throw this" or you will end up looking VERY dead. By more time I mean about
10-15 more seconds added to the safety margin before the thing HAS to be thrown!

    Another STRANGE thing you can do with this one is, tie a turpentine
soaked rag around the bottle.. (DO NOT LIGHT) This will react with the
chlorine, and catch on fire, releasing TONS of black smoke.. and an
interestingly noxious smell.. which is also probably very dangerous. (No I'm
not sure.. Would YOU stand near a death grenade to find out whether or not
it was deadly??)


4.88     Fire Grenade

Author: Garbled User

    Quite simple. Same as above two. Use Calcium Carbide and water. Harder
to do because CaC2 is NOT usually a household chemical.. Unless your wife is a
speliologist.

Now.. Simply tie a gasoline soaked rag to the bottle, light, throw.. run.

    Should make a nice, big.. powerful blast.. emitting a HUGE fireball!!
This should be used with a glass bottle, be advised.. if you throw the bottle
to hard.. it will break, causing a not-so-awesome explosion.. Of course.. when
using glass you could always cushion the outside!

    All of these should be thrown as soon as they are closed.. The gases
they produce are quite harmful.. and being nearby when one explodes is ALWAYS
a bad idea!!


4.89     Death Grenade Two!

Author:
               ,
          *****{================-
               '  the Sentinel

    Start out by reading the SAFEr carbide bomb. Put the balloon in
as directed, but first make sure its pretty dry (set it out somewhere for a
day, or use a hair dryer, etc) then toss some vinegar and some Sodium
Ferrocyanide (a crystalized substance... mine was blue) then throw in the
Calcium Carbide (for a better bomb, put the CC in a separate holder, if the
bottle top is big enough). Now, put this outside away from people for a few
days. So the vinegar and the Sodium Ferrocyanide can make Hydrogen Cyanide
(I think) anyways, after the few days,if the bomb dosen't explode (make sure
its in a cool place, FAR away from anything living (and NOT the fridge) you
shake it so the baloon bursts and mixes with the CC.

    Put this somewhere where the victim is going to go (you have about 30
seconds before it goes off) also, leave a burning rag next to it. This will
cause an explosion of acetylene gas, hydrogen  cyanide, flame and shattered
glass at about 300fps. The kill range is about 5 feet. The fuck up really bad
range is up to about 10-15 feet. If you watch this go off, make sure yer
80-100 feet away because the cyanide gas goes FAR. If you just want an
explosion, just use the CC and water... its not QUITE as deadly.

Note:
    I haven't wanted to kill anyone that bad recently, and hence, this
recipe hasn't been tested. So be careful.

c1991 FBI all rights nonexistant.


4.90     Force Grenade II

Author:
                 ,
            *****{================-
                 '  the Sentinel

    Al(s) and HCl(l) react to form Hydrogen. Just in case yer REAL stupid,
this means, take a big bottle (2 litres are the standard, although I don't know
how they'll fare with the acid) and roll up some tubes or crunch up some balls
of ALUMINUM foil... NOT tinfoil, then go to a hardware store (or if you
bothered to read the whole file  first, you already did) and you get some
Muriatic Acid (this is HCl ie: hydrochloric acid) if they ask why, tell them
you have to clean yer concrete patio. Make sure its above 31.5% or thereabouts,
or it just won't work right. If 31.5 seems a bit low, think of this: HCl is a
gas, and Hydrochloric Acid is a gas in a liquid, so 37% is deemed "Pure" or
lab grade hydrochloric acid.

[Well, not really correct, but anyway - Eds]

    Anyway... I digress. So put the acid in first (be careful, they etch
concrete with this stuff, think of what it'll do to yer piddies) then when
ready, toss the aluminum in. As aforementioned, this will create Hydrogen, and
hydrogen will ignite, so leave a burning rag nearby.

     Because I'm in a really fucked up mood and really messed up the article
and don't want to rewrite it... here's a summary.

   1    6HCl(l) + 2Al(s) = 3H2(g) + 2AlCl3

   2    Al = aluminum (foil, shavings, can?)

   3    HCl = Hydrochloric Acid, or Muriatic acid (clean concrete with)

   4    Mixem together inna big bottle with a burning rag nearby

   5    Be careful...  first time  around use a small bottle and a little bit of
    the Stuff...  and have a BB gun or a sling-shot handy to explode it
    if not enough force (NEVER PICK UP A FORCE GRENADE OR ANY EXPLOSIVE
    DEVICE THAT IS "SUPPOSED" TO BE EXPLODING)  Garbled had an accident
    which involved a mild baking soda bomb going  off in his hand... no
    serious damage.. fortunately it was a small plastic bottle.  But it
    still left his entire hand numb for an hour.


4.91     Small Grenade
Author:  SS-BADMAN (Kingdom of the Dead II)


    1 nut (any size, as long as bolts fit), the wider the better
    2 bolts (to fit nut)
    phosphorus
    (the odd colored tips of strike on anything matches work well)


1> Take 1 bolt and the nut, screw in the bolt until it is just in the nut.

                  bolt              nut
                       xx______[  ] /
                       xx______[  ]/
                       xx      [  ]


2> Put as much phosphorus as possible in the nut.

                       xx______[**]
                       xx______[**]    * = phosphorus
                       xx      [**]


3> Screw the 2nd bolt into the open end, simply crush the phosphorus when
   inserting.

                       xx______[**]______xx
                       xx______[**]______xx
                       xx      [**]      xx

    Once both ends are nice and snug, it is ready. You now have a small
grenade. they can be made in various sizes. Easily stored in the glove box of
your car, it can be thrown or dropped onto any hard surface to ignite the
phosphorus. Of course the larger the nut and bolt, the more explosive needed,
and which way the schrapel will fly is never known, so watch yourself.


4.92      The Calcium Carbide Grenade

Author: Digital Destruction(604)

    Ya know, one of the things I like about this country is that anyone
can build their very own anti-personel grenade using store bought everyday
materials. In this file I will discuss how to build one of these babies. It
should be known that when this grenade is exploded it produces a cloud of
thick grey smoke 40 feet in diameter hovering 3 feet above the ground in
which nobody can see or breathe with just a hint of shrapnel to top off the
event, so I wouldnt go throwing it at your local boy scout parade for a
'good laugh'. Procede with caution. There are still a lot of angry Indians
left over from Bhopal.

 250 g    Calcium Carbide
    (You can buy this stuff in any hardware store as lantern fuel)
 1    Coca-Cola can (Washed and dried)
 1    100ml test tube (pyrex)
 1    rubber cork
    Duct tape

Procedure:

    Funnel 180-250g of Cal. Carbide into the can so it is about 1/4
full. Then, remembering to keep it AWAY from water, put aside. Fill test
tube to 100ml and cork. MAKE SURE the outside of this is COMPLETELY dry.
Any excess water on the cork or outside of the tube will make YOU an
instant victim! Then, carefully insert test tube into hole in top of can
so it rests on bed of C.C.. Drop dots of wax around opening to hermetically
seal opening, and wrap the whole thing in duct tape. When thrown, upon
impact, the test tube will break, scattering water all over the C.C.
creating a gaseous reaction resulting in 600lbs per square inch of pressure
which will last about 5 seconds. the can will explode, shrapnel will fly
and the gas will go. Here is a picture of how it should look.


                  ------ffff---
                  !      ff   !
                  !      !!   !
                  !      !!   !
                  !      !!   !
                  !WATER>!!   !
                  !      !!   !
                  !      !!   !
                  !      !!   !
                  !      ()   !
                  !CCCCCCCCCCC!
                  !CALCIUMCCCC!
                  !CARBIDECCCC!
                  -------------

Remember. Carbide gas is a cancer causing toxin and is fatal.

Now you have your own anti-personell grenade! Won't Mum be surprised! Have
fun. And be careful. Until next time, VIVA REVOLUTION!


4.93     Shotgun Shell Impact Grenade

From: Anarchy Today,  Article #10 Issue #1
Author: Jack The Ripper

    This is an excellent little toy, ad can save your life. It not only
disperses crowds, but also legs, arms, feet, etc...

Name                                                    Source
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Potassium Chlorate/Nitrobenzene                         Recipe in this book!
Mini-Compound Detonater                                 Recipe in this book!
12 Gauge Shotgun Shell                                  Gunstore

Wood Dowel or Steel Bar 11/16' in Diameter              Hardware Stores
and any length beyond 1/2'

Hacksaw
Drill with 1/4' bit
Pieces of Cloth 12' x 1/2'
Epoxy Resin
Electrical Tape
Steel Ball Bearing 3/8' in Diameter

1)    Cut open or open up the front end of a 12 gauge shotgun shell, and
    empty out the entire contents saving only the casing.

2)    To ensure the mini detonater is centered use the hacksaw to cut a 1/2'
    length of 11/16' steel bar or wooden dowel. Now drill a 1/4' diameter
    hole in the center of the 1/2' long wood or metal cylinder.

3)    After the guide has been prepared then glue it in place on the primer
    inside the shotgun shell casing. *NOTE* do not get any glue on the
    primer itself. Now place the minicompound detonater open side down in
    the cylinder and glue it into place. Now fill the remaining space in
    the shotshell with Potassium Chlorate ***CAREFULLY***. Now close off
    the end with tape, and when ready to use simply pour in the
    nitrobenzen activator.

4)    After this is accomplished tape a 3/8' steel ball bearing over the
    primer on the outside of the shell over the primer.  Now tape the
    cloth streamers around the upside of the shell casing to ensure
    stability in flight and also helping it to land on the downside or
    primer side.

5)    Now tape nails around the shell with notches filed 1/4' apart all
    along them.



                                \  /  \ | / \
                                 \/    \|/  /
                                 |\    /\|  |
                                 \ \  / // /
                                  \ \/ // /
                                   \ \\||/
                                   -------
                                  |%%%%%%%|
                                  |%%%%%%%|
                                  |%%%%%%%|
                                  |%%%%%%%|
                                  |%%+++%%|
                                  |%%+++%%|
                                  |%%+++%%|
                                  |%%+++%%|
                                  |&&+++&&|
                                  |&&+++&&|
                                   ---"---
                                   \  O  /
                                    =====


+-+-+
+KEY+
+-+-+

+ = Mini Compound Detonater
& = Wood or Metal Holding Cylinder for Mini-Compound Detonater
= = Tape
O = Ball Bearing
% = Potassium Chlorate/Nitrobenzene High Explosive
\ |\/ = Cloth Streamers
" = Primer

-=-=-=-
-USES!-
-=-=-=-

1)      Pour the nitrobenzene into the upside of the shell and then wait 3-4
    minutes. Then to use simply throw at a target or group of people and
    upon impact the grenade will detonate itself.

2)    To use as a booby trap simply place it with the ball bearing side up
    in the ground where someone will step on it. Minus the cloth streamers
    or simply make the shell look the way it was before, and some poor
    shithead will eventually fire it resulting in death. Seeing that the
    barrel will most likely blow him apart.


4.94     The Fire Bottle

     Fill a good Jack Daniel's bottle about one-fifth to one-fourth full
with sulfuric acid. Fill the remainder with gasoline, kerosine, or a good
combination of the two and mix thoroughly. Add water to Potassium Chlorate
and sugar mix, and soak rags in the mix. Wrap the rags around the bottle,
tie in place, and allow to dry. When thrown at a T-62 or other target, the
bottle will break, the acid will ignite the chlorate-sugar mix on the rags,
which will ignite the fuel.